Eager to find out a bit more about the wine program of one of our favorite partner restaurants here in Hong Kong, that Two Michelin Masterpiece of Chef Richard Ekkebus named Amber, I met with John Chan, Head Sommelier of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental. John explained to me the composition as well as the physical arrangement of his wine list. He described the steps taken by Chef Ekkebus to make sure his cuisine stays “wine-friendly,” and let me in on why white Burgundies seem to pair best with a wide array of Amber’s signature dishes. We discussed some of the changes (and the reasons behind these changes) in wine preference, which John has noticed in recent years, such as a shift in interest from Bordeaux to Burgundy and the comeback of Chardonnay. He shared his opinion on Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay and explained why he thinks of Pinot Noir as “a charming lady in a silk dress.” He also revealed what he considers to be one of the trendiest up-and-coming wine regions in the Old World, one that will surely be a big hit in the near future.

John Chan, Head Sommelier of Amber (Photo courtesy of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong)

When asked to recommend his favorite signature dishes at Amber, he chose the Steamed and Char-Grilled Foie Gras with Cherry Reduction and Hibiscus, pairing it with the 2008 Leth Gigama, from the Weingut Leth Gigama Reserve area of Southern Austria, and the Line Caught Red Amadai with the 2002 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru “Blagny”.

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