El Bianchi Extra Brut (Bodega Casa Bianchi) es un espumante blanco elaborado con 62% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir y un atípico 5% de Viognier bajo el método tradicional de segunda fermentación en botella. El contacto con las lías es suficiente aunque no prolongado para lograr un vino fresco, con los aromas de la fruta fresca en primer plano pero acompañados por notas leves de levadura y manteca gracias a los 12 meses en contacto con sus borras. Fresco y complejo a la vez.

Seguimos con un Cruzat Larraín Nature (Bodega Cruzat), un espumante 60% Pinot Noir y 40% Chardonnay, uvas provenientes del Valle de Uco. Sus 24 meses en botella y en contacto con sus levaduras generaron un perfil más complejo, con las notas secundarias de pan brioche y nueces marcadas, aunque un toque cítrico particular que le aporta frescura.

El que siguió fue un Animal Rosado (Ernesto Catena Vineyards), un espumante atípico elaborado 100% con la variedad Syrah. En la copa se olían notas de frutos rojos, aunque también se detectaban aromas cítricos tan comunes del vino espumante. Es un estilo de espumante rosado seco y bien logrado, ideal para acompañar atún rojo o sashimis de salmón.

Para terminar, se descorchó un Vivace Dolce (Bodega Freixenet Argentina), un lindo ejemplar de espumante dulce elaborado a partir de las variedades Torrontés y Moscatel. Es un vino intenso aromáticamente, muy expresivo y exótico. La boca está dominada por el dulzor (tiene nada menos que 75 gramos de azúcar por litro, contra no más de 10 gramos que tenían los anteriores) y una acidez media. Un vino ideal para quienes se inician en el mundo de los espumantes y quienes pretenden comer un postre cítrico o una frutas frescas al lado de la pileta.

2008 La Posta Cocina Malbec (Photo by bradleypjohnson)

De Salta a Río Negro, la Argentina posee un reconocido y admirable “don” para la elaboración del tan apreciado vino. El Malbec Argentino es hoy moda en el mundo y es hora de preguntarse, “Es Argentina algo más que Malbec?” Tan simple la pregunta, tan compleja la respuesta. Argentina está, sin dudas, entre los países productores con mayor cantidad de micro y mesoclimas, distintos suelos, y mayor permisividad a la hora de decidir como manejar un viñedo (gracias a la pobre legislación). Sin lugar a dudas que si nuestro objetivo lo fuese, seriamos mucho más que malbec hablando en términos de Marketing. Y de hecho lo somos.

Pero analicemos un poco la imagen. Como país productor pecamos de “adolescentes”. Apostamos, hasta hace unos años, el 100% de nuestras fichas al Malbec, lo cual resulto fabuloso. De apoco comenzamos a promover nuestro tan distintivo Torrontes (única variedad autóctona, cruce entre Moscatel de Alejandría y Criolla Chica). La estrategia funcionó de maravilla, aunque tanto éxito trae sus problemas.

En primer lugar, carecemos de falta de investigación y búsqueda de excelencia en otras variedades. Con esto quiero decir que como país productor no nos interesa la investigación acerca de porque cada variedad se adapta mejor en los distintos terruños. También hay falta de legislación de dichos resultados, la cual debería existir para contar con un respaldo confiable de que cada producto viene de los lugares donde mejor se dan y mejor se hacen. Lo que sucede que la demanda de Malbec es tan alta (local y global), que producir Malbec (sea cualquiera la calidad y el precio) es “el atajo” en el negocio del vino en la Argentina. Siempre hablando en grandes escalas, no hay bodega o productor que no posea un Malbec varietal en su portfolio.

Malbec Grapes in Mendoza (Photo by Nicole Pontón)

Esto nos lleva a nuestra segunda problemática en relación con este tema. La demanda de nuestra emblemática variedad se ha ido por las nubes, y su crecimiento fue tan rápido como repentino. Como país, no nos preparamos para esto, y hoy en día no solo nos podemos abastecer con calidad, tampoco con uvas de inferiores calidades llegamos a cubrir dicha demanda. Consecuentemente, al mundo, e inclusivo a los argentinos mismos les cuesta creer que somos más que Malbec. Lo cual debería ser nuestra carta de presentación, pero no más que eso.

Una tercera problemática surge como consecuencia. La rotación de los demás varietales es difícil y hasta en algunos casos casi nula, generando así un desequilibrio de mercado y producción. Algo difícil de imaginar si vemos la foto de demanda del Malbec, y viendo que no podemos abastecerla.

Pinot Noir Grapes at Bodega Familia Schroeder in Patagonia (Photo by Uncornered Market)

Sin ser una crítica, este artículo intenta ser un llamado de atención. A los productores que inviertan tiempo y dinero en investigar y apostar a los resultados obtenidos. A las autoridades que fortalezcan la legislación, pensando en proteger las zonas de producción. A los promotores del vino argentino a ayudar a que los productores se sientan “respaldados” de alguna manera, ayudándolos a promover sus apuestas. Y a los consumidores, locales y globales, sepan que la Argentina es mucho más que solo Malbec. Anímense un vino argentino de otra variedad! Simplemente para nombrar algunos ejemplos que se me vienen a la mente, no son acaso bien distintivos los Pinot Noir y Merlot de la fría Patagonia? O los Syrah y Viognier del seco San Juan? O los Malbecs de Lujan de Cuyo y Salta? O el Torrontes Cafayatense o de la Rioja? O el Cabernet Sauvignon de San Rafael y Valle de Uco?

Sin ser los ejemplos más específicos, ni los únicos, nos podemos dar cuenta que en nuestro extenso territorio tenemos más de un varietal que producir, legislar, comunicar y consumir. La Argentina no es monovarietal! Pongamos todas nuestras herramientas a disposición y ayudemos, cada uno desde su lugar, a promover el vino Argentino sin olvidarnos que contamos con una paleta de variedades que se adaptan excelentemente a nuestros variados terruños y que nos dan excelentes ejemplos de que…

…LA ARGENTINA ES MUCHO MAS QUE MALBEC.

In general, the exhibition has gotten a bit bigger, in order to cope both with the increasing number of attendants and the number of wineries and wines available. The food pairing at the event is directed by different hotel restaurants, so you can find many different islands of food, such as a wide selection of cheeses, both cold and hot bites and then the chocolate, ice cream and desserts areas. Among those that were most acclaimed by the attendants were the fried ravioli, tempura prawns and Indian-style rice and lamb.

As I myself am based in Argentina, this is great occasion for me to taste wines from all over the world, so I focused the first night on those ones I haven´t tried before. Starting with the whites, the first wine that really stood out from the rest was the Mouton Cadet Blanc Bordeaux AOC 2010. This typical white blend made by the Baron Philippe de Rothschild estates, composed of mostly Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and a bit of Muscadelle, has a very fresh and aromatic nose, with citric fruits, herbs and flowers; in the mouth a high acidity stands out along with the fresh fruits notes found in the nose. An interesting summer white, which would go perfectly with some salad and seafood lunch.

Onto the reds, I´ve chosen a classic Tuscan Sangiovese, the Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2005. Ripe red fruits, black pepper, sweet spices and earthiness were present in the nose, while in the mouth you find a yet young wine, intense with medium tannins and a full-body. For the end of this tasting, and many others, I found the enchanting sweetness and refreshing bubbles of the Saracco Moscato d´Asti DOCG. Out of its unique method of production you get a sweet wine (140 g/L of sugar) with a low alcohol level (5.5%) and nice, gentle bubbles (1.5 atm, less pressure than in a sparkling wine) combined with the fruitiness and perfumes of the Muscat Canelli grape. A fantastic swimming pool wine.

On the second night I focused on tasting the new harvest of the Uruguayan wines, looking forward to having the wines I´ve tasted and liked before and also the new labels being released into the market. If I mention wine and Uruguay in the same sentence, I am guessing you may all think of Tannat and you would not be wrong to do so, as this is its flagship varietal and I love many of them. But today let´s talk about what Uruguay has to offer beyond Tannat. As all cool, coastal wine regions in the world, it has a great advantage in whites as you can see when tasting Bouza Albariño 2011, already a classic, or Gimenez Mendez Alta Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2011, the new release of this winery bringing them to a whole new level of Sauvignon Blanc. Among the rosés, never waste an opportunity to try Marichal Reserve Collection Blanc de Noir 2011. A unique rosé made out of blending a Blanc de Noir Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with part of it being kept in oak barrels for a few months – you won´t regret it. Even if it´s not the last harvest, it has a very interesting evolution in the bottle. Among the reds, besides the Tannat, there are many other grape varieties, especially Bordeaux, related, due to the climatic conditions. You will find strong varietal wines like Pisano RPF Petit Verdot 2008, Alto de la Ballena Reserva Merlot 2007, and a top-notch blends such as the Pizzorno Primo 2006, composed of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Arinarnoa, the newbie grape variety that´s just now coming in strong to the region.

If you attended the event this year I´m looking forward to your comments and feedback on which wines you liked. If not, I hope you are planning to be there next year, as more than 400 wines from over 150 producers are just waiting to be tasted! Cheers!

Martin Krawczyk Pardo
Certified Sommelier by the Court of Masters Sommeliers and member of the Argentina Sommeliers Association

Wine and BBQ (Painting by Olivia Wiley Brantley)

Doesn’t this just look like a BBQ party? It was painted by Pairing to Perfection (P2P)’s sister last summer; a perfect pairing for an evening with good wine, good food, good friends. ©2011, Olivia Wiley Brantley, Atlanta, GA

There are some folks who have a bit of an elitist’s attitude about tasting, especially blind tasting, wines. And to be fair, there are some serious reasons to know how to do a tasting properly and what we are generally looking for, in order to identify at least the correct varietal when we are tasting wines and pairing them with foods. That said, why on earth would we take something as wonderful and fun as enjoying wine with friends and make it as dull and dry as a tasting grid!?

So P2P is working on a game to make tasting FUN and easy to use at home pairing parties…

• Pour a humble glass. Take a sniff from the glass in front of you
• Close your eyes, take another sniff. What do you smell?
• If you smell cherry, strawberry, plum, smooth, you know it COULD be a New World Merlot… but it could also be a wonderful Malbec from Argentina’s Mendoza Region. (On the other hand you may not smell any of that, just a smooth big red that would taste good with ANYTHING off the grill…)
• What foods do you think of as you roll the wine around your mouth? Smoked brisket? Grilled steak? Barbeque?
• Grill favorite meat. Add crisp salad, baked new potatoes, grilled asparagus. Enjoy!

2007 Root 1 Sauvignon Blanc and Grill (Photo by K Wudrich)

Game over. Take the bottle out of its paper bag and pour a “real” glass. This party started with laughter while everyone was pretending to smell what they thought they needed to in order to guess what type of wine they held in their glass. Does it taste good? Did you smell something that would go well with the food being served? If so, you just won the game!

In reality, enjoying wine has everything to do with good food and good company. There already are many talented folks out there who truly make a science of smelling, tasting and pairing so that we can comfortably order a good wine for a specific course. There are also talented folks like those at Entaste who have taken that science and applied it to an app so that we can go to a restaurant and have a wine menu delivered to us on an iPad, right on the spot. It doesn’t get any easier than that now, does it?

Salut!

P2P

Eucharist offered at Iglesia de San Nicolas, Pamplona, Spain (Photo by Vladimer Shioshvili)

Wine has been around for 8,000 years and the culture around it has constantly evolved during that time. It made an appearance at the Last Supper (Gospel of Luke 22:19) and since then has been used in the Christian rite of the Eucharist. The Greek god Dionysus used it as a sacramental entheogen to induce a mind-altering state. The Zen Buddhists used it for meditation. The Egyptian pharaohs were entombed with it.

21^st century American college co-eds enjoy it too…

Slapping the Bag (photo by Ryan and Karin Keranen)

Urban Dictionary defines slapbag as: “A drinking game using boxed wine. The bag is removed from the box and held by one person while the drinker slaps it as hard as they can before they drink. Most often associated with Franzia boxed wine. E.g.: “Dude, the party was weak until somebody busted out the Franzia. We played slapbag all night.”

The game is usually played until the entire bag of wine is gone, either consumed or spilled. It is a particularly messy game, often leaving players with sticky faces and a floor covered with wine. In many cases, the bag is verbally abused either before or after it is struck and is thus an outlet for pent up aggression. At pre-game tailgate parties and other sports-related gatherings, for example, the bag is often associated with the opposing team and is treated as such. Slapping the bag is also a popular way for college students to release stress during final examination period.

Franzia Sunset Blush (Photo by Ernie Bello)

As mentioned in the official definition of the game above, Franzia boxed wine is the #1 choice for “slapping the bag”. An extremely versatile brand, Franzia offers three different styles: Vitner Select (described on their site as “easy to drink wines that are ‘true to the varietal’ flavor without the overpowering flavor of oak”), World Classics (true to their “old world” heritage – White Zinfandel, White Grenache, Chablis, Burgundy, etc.) and House Wine Favorites. Of these styles the latter is often chosen, with the most popular flavor being “Sunset Blush,” which the site describes as “Delicate pink hue with strawberry flavors; easy to drink and very refreshing… Serve chilled.” At $10.99 for a 5L box, Franzia Sunset Blush is quite the bargain and at 95 calories per 5-ounce serving (nutrition facts supplied by Franzia website) it is also particularly figure-friendly. Crisp White and Refreshing White are also popular flavors for “slapping the bag” as they are very light in color and thus easier to clean out of a carpet or clothing. Chillable Red, on the other hand, is not recommended as it leaves difficult stains.

BC grapes

I began this post by considering the question, “How does one even begin to explain the development of one of Canada’s two major wine growing areas?” Through my journey and experiences within the wine industry in British Columbia (“BC”), the answer has popped up time and again with clarity: BC’s wine industry is all about the people and their stories. The hard work and perseverance of the winemakers contribute to making this wine-growing region so interesting, diverse and exciting. Over the last few years we have seen BC wines accelerate in quality and gain respectability at home and abroad. So now – I am ready to dive into and explore this wine region with you once again. I hope to continue to expand my knowledge of this region and share it’s stories with you through my articles.

BC wine corks

Within BC, there are 196 grape wine wineries, and several pending. There are 5 main wine growing regions; within which the ratio of white wine produced to red is 49% to 51%. That is without considering fruit based wines. And did I mention ice wine? Oh, and what about local sake? From Burrowing Owl to Dirty Laundry, there definitely are some wineries to learn about and wine to drink!

Not only does BC produce quality wines, there is a whole world of fresh and local foods. From swanky urban restaurants, fresh from the farm free-range local eggs sold at the side of the road, and delectable seafood pulled fresh from the ocean, the province showcases a wide variety of foods to sample. The range of talented farmers and chefs that the province boasts, produce distinctive west coast cuisine that complements the region’s distinctive wines. I look forward to introducing you to a few talented chefs that I have met along my travels in upcoming posts. I may just even learn how to cook (it’s going to take some work – as boiling water can at times be a challenge for me)!

A great jumpstart into the world of BC wine is attending one of the many wine festivals that happen within our province. Most of the wine festivals focus on showcasing both BC and international wines. These are great for the first time sippers or experienced sommeliers. So, if you are a local in the area or an international traveler that has some frequent flier points to use up – you should check them out! Some of my favorites are the International Playhouse Wine Festival in Vancouver, the Cornucopia Festival in Whistler, the Okanagan Wine Festivals in Kelowna, and the Taste Festival in Victoria.

Not to be dissuaded, Mark initiated the transition of vineyards owned or managed by Jack Neal & Son – established in 1968, and at nearly 1,900 acres, the largest single vineyard management company in Napa Valley – from conventional to organic grape growing in 1984. Jack Neal passed away in 1994, but not before seeing most of their vineyards accredited by California Certified Organic Farmers (i.e. CCOF) by 1991.

Today, with over 1,800 acres of vineyards fully certified, Jack Neal & Son is by far the largest grower of organic wine grapes in Napa Valley. About 1% of these grapes go into wines bottled under the family’s own label, Neal Family Vineyards (the winery established on Howell Mountain in 2001). Otherwise, the Neals work vineyards for no less than 60 growers, supplying grapes to some 72 wineries.

The sheer size of the Neals’ operation begs the questions: can any vineyard in Napa Valley be farmed organically; and if so, why not? AppellationAmerican.com currently puts the total acreage of grapes planted in the Napa Valley AVA at 43,000; just over 7% of which now has some sort of organic or Biodynamic® certification. “I honestly don’t know exactly why more growers in Napa Valley aren’t organic,” says Neal. It can’t be the cost, because when Mark Neal tracked eight of his vineyards transitioning from conventional to organic farming between 2005 and 2008, he found that “in seven of the eight ranches, the costs of organic farming were lower than conventional farming by an average of $6,000… the ‘high cost’ of organic farming is a myth.”

Like others, Mark Neal was motivated early on simply because “I found the idea of synthetic, possibly harmful residue on grapes and vines unsavory… it’s always been a health concern for my family and for our employees. But really, organic is also simply better for the environment, and I don’t think that on the whole there is any argument over the fact that organic practices tend to enhance the inherent and distinctive aspect of vineyards.”

“Like organic foods,” says Neal, “organically grown wines simply taste better, which is why French organic wines, for example, show up consistently among the top ten best wines in any region, being cited in magazines as the most innovative, interesting and personalized products around.”

The Neals produce elegantly scaled Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah, but their true forté is Cabernet Sauvignon, which are world class across the board. Among their stable of seven Cabernet Sauvignons are two each carrying Howell Mountain and Napa Valley AVAs, and one each from Rutherford, Mount Veeder, and Atlas Peak. Our Organic Wine Match of the Day, the 2005 Neal Family, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (about $45), is a modern day 100% varietal classic: a seamless, velvet textured blend of Howell Mountain, Rutherford, Atlas Peak and Mount Veeder grown fruit. The feel of the wine is thick and viscous, with layerings of sweet black fruit, cedar and peppermint, tinged with smoky, pungent, mocha espresso-like qualities.

There are few things that go as naturally with a smooth Napa Valley style Cabernet Sauvignon like the Neals’ as lamb and mint; since both gamey and green-leafy sensations mingle effortlessly with eucalyptus qualities inherent in the grape. Lamb is expensive, but a great resource for recipes utilizing lower priced cuts of meat is Molly Stevens’ All About Braising. Since you need to buy the book to reap Stevens’ wisdom, for now you might make do with this online recipe for braised lamb shanks with mint gremolata and spring vegetables provided by Bon Appétit.

Enjoy!

ALDO’S Vinoteca

One of the best restaurants in town for those who love wine just as much as food, ALDO’S Vintoeca is offering a sensual four course menu that will leave lovebirds feeling just the right amount of tipsy without being uncomfortably full.  Each course (soup, salad and dessert courses) gives diners two options to choose from, except for the main meal where diners can pick from three different choices: grilled cod with a fresh bulgur wheat salad, beef tenderloin served with rösti potatoes in a Béarnaise sauce, or for vegetarians, a vegetable lasagna with mozzarella cheese.  Since ALDO’S is all about the wine, each couple receives their choice of a bottle of Zuccardi Serie A Malbec or Chardonnay-Viognier and espumante Alma 4 for a bubbly toast. Check out ALDO’S Facebook page for the full menu. Price: AR$380 per couple.

Chez Nous at Algodon Mansion Hotel

Spend the ultimate romantic evening in one of the most romantic restaurants in Buenos Aires.  Chez Nous offers an elegant four course menu that will seal the deal for any couple looking to make amore.  Fine dining at its best, take your sweetheart on an extra special night with this spectacular menu that combines French culinary techniques with modern fare, reinventing Argentine cuisine. The meal is accompanied by Luigi Bosca wines, so you know you are in for a great night.  If you are feeling (and looking to get) extra lucky, reserve the ultimate romantic night: the Valentine’s Day special dinner with one night in the luxurious hotel.  Price: AR$470 per couple for the dinner.

Hernán Gipponi’s Restaurant at Fierro Hotel

World renowned chef Hernán Gipponi cooks up a succulent six-course menu, ideal for any foodie couple looking to get down and dirty with plates of ridiculously delicious food.  The menu for the night includes several small tapas plates, an appetizer, a fish course, a meat course and two dessert courses, all done with utter elegance. Some highlights of the menu are scallops with turkish lentils and green curry and skirt steak with spiced carrot puré and pearl barley.  Ever try a yerba mate dessert? Now you can indulge in an inventive yerba mate sponge cake, cocoa cream, apple sorbet and orange wafer.  The meal also comes with a welcome cocktail and glass of Chandon Rosé sparkling wine. Price: AR$400 per couple.

La Bourgogne at Alvear Palace Hotel

Looking to majorly impress on Valentine’s Day?  Make sure you are with that special someone and head over to La Bourgogne for a rememberable night.  A bit of a splurge, despite the luxurious nine-course menu designed by Le Grand Chef Relais Châteaux Jean Paul Bondoux, it’s hard not to put out after such a remarkable meal. The dining extravaganza is accompanied by fantastic Finca Los Nobles wines and a glass of Boheme all from Bodega Luigi Bosca. Price per person: AR$860.

Le Mistral at Four Seasons Hotel

The theme of the night is all about “Peppers and Roses.”  Indulge in a sophisticated four-course Valentine’s themed dinner created by Chef Juan Gaffuri.  The menu boasts such delicacies such as a pink peppercorn-glazed kobe short rib with asparagus, potato and truffle gratin and a delectable dessert consisting of cherries, roses, chocolate and peppercorn made by Pastry Chef Joaquín Grimaldi that’s bound to get you laid. It’s only natural to go along with the rose theme and serve a sparkling rosé from Familia Gascón winery. Price per person: AR$460.

Siete Vacas Torrontés 2010 en La Cata

Una de las ventajas que más me gustan de mi trabajo son las catas ¨obligatorias¨ que tenemos cada semana para todo el equipo de Entaste. En la última cata que hicimos probamos el Siete Vacas Torrontés 2010.

Como buena fanática y amante del Torrontés desde hace varios años, este vino me llamó la atención porque no proviene de lo típicas zonas de Torrontés, Salta, La Rioja, o Mendoza si se quiere.

La bodega se llama “Las Arcas del Tolombón” y está ubicada en Colalao del Valle, en la provincia de Tucumán. La bodega posee viñedos en Tolombón (Tucumán) y en algunas regiones de Salta. Es uno de los primeros vinos, al menos en la categoría de gama media-alta, que salen al mercado con uvas provenientes de Tucumán.

Es un típico torrontés del noroeste argentino, elaborado tradicionalmente con levaduras naturales. Es un torrontés auténtico y salvaje, con una nariz plagada de aromas de fruta blanca (duraznos blancos) y notas florales (jazmines). En boca, aparece algo de naranja, ensalada de frutas. Es un vino con una acidez media y un final levemente amargo, típico de esta variedad de uva.

En definitiva, un vino refrescante, con buena tipicidad e ideal para maridar desde las típicas empanadas salteñas y queso de cabra, hasta comidas como el ceviche o un pollo al estilo thai. Excelente relación precio-calidad. Altamente recomendable!

Entaste screenshot del Siete Vacas Torrontés 2010