Beatriz Ochoa of Bodegas Ochoa talks about the wines of Navarra

 

It was ‘back in the day’, as they say, in 1998 that I first visited Navarra in Spain. At the time I was working as sommelier at Oxo Tower Restaurant on London’s South Bank and I had already visited Spain a couple of times, but was in the process of getting into the wines from Navarra. I listed the wines from leading bodegas of the region such as Chivite, Guelbenzu and Ochoa and was soon acquiring a taste and enthusiasm for their distinctive flavour and character. This historic region, famed for agricultural produce, mainly rosado wines and the legendary ‘running of the bulls’ in Pamplona, was always in the shadow of its neighbour – Rioja. What immediately struck me though on becoming familiar with these wines, was that they tasted a little bit different, almost “Bordeaux-like” with good definition, varietal character and expression. I soon became fond of them and going on that trip was an amazing experience.

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Dirty, Rowdy, Yummy!

 

Dirty and Rowdy Family Wines is the newest label in Napa (or was until John started slapping labels on the Enfield Wine Co. Haynes Vineyard Syrah last night!), and if you’re into drinking the kind of wine that I am, it is undisputedly one of the best.

The wine is a partnership between two couples: DIRTY is Hardy and Kate, ROWDY is Matt and Amy. They all met while living in Atlanta – where Matt and Amy still reside – Hardy was working in tech and writing a wine blog called Dirty South Wine, while his buddy Matt was getting increasingly geeky about cooking as he worked on a blog called Rowdy FoodTheir excitement about wine grew and grew and grew, and after Hardy and Kate relocated to Northern California, they decided to give it a go making their own wine. Man, am I happy they did.

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Interview with Ryan N Dela Pena, Manager of Rocksalt on the Stanley Promenade

 

No day-trip to Stanley Beach is 100% complete without a nice glass of wine and some fresh seafood. The place to get it? Rocksalt restaurant, located on the Stanley Promenade at the mouth of the bustling Stanley Street Market. With its characteristically high ceilings and windows, Rocksalt truly reflects the natural beauty of the waterfront facing it. The cuisine offered is predominantly made up of fresh Australian seafood, including their famous Coffin Bay Oysters, with a few surprises on the menu as well, such as the kangaroo steak drizzled with red wine and caramelized bacon jus. What sets Rocksalt apart from other seafood restaurants in Stanley, however, is the signature salt used in their dishes; instead of ordinary table salt, the food is flavored or garnished with rock salts from different regions of the world, in order to better bring out the flavors of each dish.

Ryan N Dela Pena, Acting Manager of Rocksalt

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Interview with Yvonne Cheung, Chef Sommelier of The Upper House in Hong Kong

 

Private Dining Booth at Cafe Gray Deluxe (Photo courtesy of The Upper House, Hong Kong)

Eager to know more about Café Gray Deluxe, one of Entaste’s favorite venues in Hong Kong, I sat down with Yvonne Cheung, Chef Sommelier of The Upper House, to learn more about the famously extensive and expertly assembled wine list of the restaurant. Yvonne let me in on some of the chief differences she has experienced between working as a sommelier in North America and in Hong Kong. She also described to me Chef Gray’s wonderful food philosophy and how it manifests itself in his dishes, as well as the elegant yet comfortable décor of the restaurant and how it echoes the concept behind the cuisine. Finally, we discussed the excellent wine program at Café Gray and the unique, uncommon wines, which Yvonne affectionally refers to as her “personality quirks” and which truly set this wine program apart from some of the others in Hong Kong. When asked to choose a dish which best exemplifies Chef Gray’s cuisine, she chose the famed Braised Short Ribs and recommended with it a choice of three different wines: the 2007 Braida Bricco dell’Uccellone from Italy, a Beaux Frères Pinot Noir, or a Côte-Rôtie Syrah. What a tough choice! A glass of each should do…
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When French “Savoir Faire” Meets the Great New World

 

There are certain wines I’ve tried that I’m sure I’ll never forget. They stand out among the rest and that is why, when I think about them, I can still see myself there holding up the glass to smell the first notes.

One of these wines is the Clos Marguerite Sauvignon Blanc, which I drank for the first time at the Cornershop Bistro near Sumner Beach in Christchurch, New Zealand. Clos Marguerite Winery is the fruit of the dream of Jean-Charles Van Hove and Marguerite Dubois who, after marrying in Belgium, decided they wanted to find a place in the New World to make their own wine.

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Interview with Mr. Morgan Rousseau Le Guyader, M’aître d’ of Azure Restaurant slash Bar

 

After my interview with Mr. Raymond Moore, Food and Beverage Manager of Rhombus International Hotels Group, about AVA Restaurant Slash Bar a few weeks ago, I was eager to find out more about AVA’s very popular sister restaurant, AZURE Restaurant Slash Bar and, specifically, about the wine program they have installed there.

View from AZURE Restaurant slash Bar (Photo courtesy of Azure Restaurant Slash Bar)

I met with Mr. Morgan Rousseau, M’aître d’, to discuss the concept behind the restaurant, its cuisine and its wine list. Morgan explained to me the name “Azure” and why it fits the venue. He described to me the wine list, which is mostly made up of French classics, and explained some of the consumption trends he has noticed among the restaurant’s local, Mainland Chinese, tourist and expat clientele. When asked to suggest a signature dish and wine pairing, he chose Azure’s Australian lamb chop and paired it with the Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico.

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Interview with Gon Leung, Sommelier of Cépage

 

Eager to find out more about the famous wine list of one of our favorite Entaste venues in Hong Kong, Cépage, I spoke with Mr. Gon Leung, Head Sommelier of the restaurant. Gon introduced to me the work of Chef Sebastien Lepinoy as traditional French with a few Asian touches, the local ingredients serving to lighten an otherwise butter-rich and heavy cuisine. Gon described to me the elegant yet comfortable interior design of Cépage, conceived by famous Singaporean design company Kay Ngee Tan Architects, also in charge of Les Amis, the flagship restaurant of the Les Amis Group. We discussed the impressive wine list, boasting 2,500 labels and over 7,800 bottles, of which around 70% is French to match the overall French cuisine offered. Gon explained to me the physical arrangement of the easy-to-navigate wine list, by vintage for Bordeaux, by domain for Burgundy and by region for their Italian wines. Gon also let me in on the shifting trend from Bordeaux to Burgundy to smaller Champagne producers, which he has noticed during his 3 years working at Cépage. When asked to recommend a signature dish, he chose the Black Truffle Maki Roll and paired it to a 2008 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, Germany.

Our interview follows:

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Interview with Lloyd Lewis, General Manager of Wooloomooloo Prime

 

I met with Lloyd Lewis, General Manager of Woolomooloo Prime, the shining buckle on the belt of the Wooloomooloo Steakhouse Group. Lloyd described to me the chic decor of the restaurant which, located on the top floor of The One shopping mall in TST, commands a truly breathtaking view of its surrounding Kowloon as well as Victoria Harbor and Hong Kong Island. We discussed the concept behind the cuisine offered at Wooloomooloo Prime and I learned a bit about the menu, which is dominated by Australian and U.S. steaks but which also has a wide selection of seafood platters, fish dishes and other house specialties to satisfy less blood-thirsty guests.

Lloyd also walked me through the mostly New World based wine list, 25% of which is made up of Australian labels to match the Australian beef, and explained to me why he has chosen to put the red wines first on the list instead of the usual sparkling wines. Finally, we talked a bit about the wine consumption trends that Lloyd has noticed among his clientele, and about which regions and varieties his customers tend to order the most. When asked to choose a signature dish and wine pairing, Lloyd chose the Australian Wagyu Tomahawk steak with the Torbreck “The Steading” Shiraz. Sounds to me like a carnivore’s dream come true!
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Friday 5 o’clock, Tea time? Why not throw a Sémillon Party?

 

The other Friday we joined together for another Friday’s Tasting at the Office. Last time, when we tried a few white blends with different compositions, Sémillon became a key topic, as some hadn’t even heard of it. So, we decided to go for a full Sémillon tasting!

In terms of dry whites made out of Sémillon, we can find the greatest ones in Bordeaux, more specifically in the Graves area, and in the New World in Australia’s Hunter Valley. So, we went for a Mendel Semillon 2011, from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, a wine which showed a fresh and complex nose with notes of dried flowers and stone fruits, such as apricots. In the mouth it shows a good balance, with acidity present and the flowery reminiscence also present in the after-taste.

The second wine was actually somewhat of a curiosity, something that is rarely bottled and sold: a 2012 unfiltered wine which was made with the idea to make it a sparkling wine. When tasting it, Matias Michelini, the winemaker behind this project called Passionate Wines, decided that it was an interesting opportunity to show how a wine tastes at the winery when fermentation has just finished. The result, Inéditos Semillón Hulk Unfiltered 2012, is a low alcohol wine, with a high acidity which is nearer to a juice, but is perfect as an aperitif, as the crispness that comes from the lack of filtering is really interesting.

To summarize the Sémillon idea, we went for a sweet wine made out of botrytized grapes, made in the mirror-image of one of the world’s greatest sweet wine like Sauternes. It was time for Catena Zapata’s Saint Felicien Sémillon Doux 2007. In the nose you can find what you are expecting out of a botrytized Sémillon – white flowers, caramelized citrics and the noticeable honey character. In the mouth, it shows a lower level of sugar, mainly due to the high acidity present in the wine, showing the difference from a late harvest wine, but overall a great pleasure drinking it. Of course, only meant for those lovers of sweet wines!

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Interview with James Wong, Sommelier of The Mistral restaurant in the InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong

 

I recently visited The Mistral restaurant, located in the InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong, to speak to Sommelier James Wong about the award-winning wine program of the restaurant. We discuss the modern Italian cuisine offered at The Mistral as well as the traditional Italian interior, the walls accentuated by the ceramic bowls shared by restaurant members of the Unione Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo all over the world. James described to me the 80% Italian wine list and let me in on some of the consumption trends that he has noticed among his customers, as well as his observations on how these trends have changed throughout the 23 years that he has been working at the InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong.

The Mistral Sommerlier - James Wong (Photo courtesy of InterContinent Grand Stanford Hong Kong)

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