Category Archives: Sommelier Speaks

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Interview with Founder Mark Cholewka and Sommelier Alexandre Loisel of Shore Restaurant & Bar

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As Mark Cholewka, Founder and Managing Director of Shore Restaurant & Bar admits, many of his life’s most memorable moments have occurred where land meets water. In other words, at a shore. Hence the inspiration behind the steak and seafood restaurant meets suave bar and lounge, located on the 3rd floor of The L Place in Central. The place specializes in in-house dry-aging premium quality beef, having been one of the first venues in Hong Kong to do so.

Shore Steak Dining Room (Photo courtesy of Shore)

To find out more about the wine program, designed to spotlight Executive Chef Jason Black’s steak-prominent cuisine, I met with Mark Cholewka as well as Group Sommelier and Beverage Manager Alexandre Loisel. With Mark I discussed in depth the inspiration behind the name and decor of the restaurant, as well as the overarching concept behind the menu. Alexandre described to me the famous Meat Bible, a truly holy book that serves guests by explaining in detail the different cuts of beef available around the world, and their different possible preparation methods. He also spoke of the restaurant’s mostly Old World oriented wine list, as well as some of the wine consumption trends he has noticed among Shore’s mixed local and Western clientele. When asked to recommend a signature dish and wine pairing, he chose the Dry-Aged Cape Grim Bone-In Striploin with the Domaine de la Grange des Pères, a hearty blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Mourvedre and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

After the interview, I also got a chance to visit Shore Hospitality’s latest project, a wonderfully rustic and down-to-earth eatery called The Salted Pig, just one floor down from Shore. A spacious, comfortable, country-style dining room welcomes guests to relax, share a carafe (or two!) of wine and enjoy Chef Black’s piggy-centric, European countryside style menu.

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Interview with Bhatia Dheeraj, Chief Sommelier of The Peninsula Hong Kong

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Erected in 1928, The Peninsula Hong Kong hotel truly is a shining gem in the city’s historical mosaic, as are the wonderful restaurants located therein. Although they differ from one another in terms of style and cuisine, what the restaurants of The Peninsula all have in common is an iconic status and an unwaveringly magnificent reputation.

To find out more about The Peninsula’s wine program, renowned for always having been one of the best in the city, I sat down with Chief Sommelier Bhatia Dheeraj who, after joining the team in 2012, has taken on the task of adding his own influence to the hotel’s wine program. Throughout our interview, Bhatia explained to me the concept behind the cuisine offered at each of the hotel’s emblematic restaurants, and how the separate wine program at each restaurant matches up to those cuisines. We discussed how the structure of the clientele differs between the restaurants, as well as some of the trends Bhatia has noticed in the types of wines restaurant guests tend to order these days. Bhatia shared with me the reasons behind why the hotel has such a broad selection of sweet wines, including some very impressive antique vintages of Port, and a collection of Magnum bottle Armagnacs, to match the fabulous confections of the hotel’s in-house Maître Chocolatier. When asked to recommend a signature dish that best represents The Peninsula Hong Kong as a whole, he chose Rémi Van Peteghem’s “Roasted pigeon with Muscovado sugar crust, its stuffed leg and baby carrots,” and paired it with the Château Romassan from Domaines Ott, a wonderfully balanced blend of Granache, Cinsault and Syrah.

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Interview with Zachary Yu, “The Wine Guy” of Langham Place Hotel Hong Kong

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How does one pair wine to a cuisine whose central concept revolves around the sharing of multiple dishes that differ immensely from one another? Does one match each dish with the appropriate glass or search for a single miracle variety that goes with the myriad of flavors and textures on the table?

To find out, I sat down with “Wine Guy” Zachary Yu of Ming Court, the 2 Michelin Star Contemporary Cantonese restaurant at the Langham Place Hotel, home to famed Master Chef Tsang Chiu King. The Ming Cellar, managed by Zachary, boasts an impressive 430+ labels from all over the world and a wine team that works tirelessly to recommend classic food and wine pairings as well as more adventurous ones.

Zachary Yu, The Wine Guy of Langham Place Hotel Hong Kong

During our interview, Zachary explained to me why the rules of wine and food pairing at a French restaurant simply do not apply to Cantonese cuisine. He described to me his own pairing philosophy, one based more on texture than flavor profile. He walked me through the restaurant’s unique iPad wine application and the multi-sorting system that allows customers to choose their wines by applying a variety of preference parameters. We discussed some of Chef Tsang Chiu King’s signature dishes, including the Silky Egg White with Pepper Shrimp on Crispy Perilla Leaf and the classic Roast Goose, as well as the wines that Zachary would pair with them. Zachary also let me in on some of the wine-related events at Ming Court, including a Hairy Crab promotion at the end of October and weekly Argentine wine tastings through the month of November.

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Interview with Jack Gonsalves, Restaurant Manager of Va Bene

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Va Bene is positioned to be a stylish recreation of a traditional Italain-style trattoria. For over 20 years it has provided guests the opportunity to enjoy a traditional Italian menu in a laid-back yet elegant environment, before immersing themselves in the bustling nightlife of LKF. Under high ceilings painted with the blue, sunny sky, one can enjoy Italian classics such as Beef Carpaccio or Veal Milanese, a pasta or risotto, pairing the dish with one of the over 200 Italian and French labels in the restaurant’s impressive wine cellar.

Va Bene Entrance (Photo courtesy of Gaia Group)

I met with Restaurant Manager Jack Gonsalves to learn more about the wine program at Va Bene. In addition to explaining the rather cheerful name of the establishment, the décor and the inspiration behind the cuisine, Jack described to me the composition of Va Bene’s mostly Italian wine list and the trends that he has noticed in which regions and appellations seem most popular among the restaurant’s mostly expat clientele. He recounted to me the story behind the wine list’s “Gaia Group Special Selection of Imported Wines” section and the special connection between the Gaia Group and Pietro Rinaldi’s wines, which are featured heavily in this section. When asked to recommend a signature dish and wine pairing, he chose the Scialatielli pasta with sea scallops and sea urchin, which he paired with the 2011 Ansitz Waldgries Sauvignon Blanc.
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Interview with Executive Chef Philippe Orrico and Restaurant Manager Gregoire Valentin of St. George

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St. George, located in the historical Hullett House, formerly the Marine Police Headquarters on Canton Road, brings to the 21st century a feeling of colonial era luxury. Elegant hardwood floors, comfortable leather sofas and plush velvet curtains create an antique lounge environment, one that blends beautifully with the surf-and-turf based, Contemporary French cuisine of the talented Executive Chef Philippe Orrico.

   

To find out more about the wine program at St. George I sat down with Chef Philippe Orrico (above left) and Restaurant Manager Gregoire Valentin (above right). Gregoire recounted to me the history of the restaurant and of the Hullett House, and Chef Philippe spoke of the inspiration behind his Modern French cuisine, one which is based on the marriage of land and sea. We discussed the private wine dinners held at St. George, for which the Chef designs personalized menus to match the wines brought by guests. Gregoire and Chef Philippe also explained to me the structure of the clientele and how it has changed throughout the 3 years that St. George has been open. When asked to describe a signature dish, Chef Philippe decided to speak instead of his signature style, highlighting his Spanish Beef from Galice as a dish which best reflects this style. He paired the dish with a Spanish Wine from Alvaro Palcios, the 2005 Palacios Remondo La Montesa.

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Interview with Kevin Shih, General Manager of Trattoria Doppio Zero

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Trattoria Doppio Zero, located on the Ground Floor of The Pemberton in Sheung Wan, specializes in Italian pastas made fresh every day by talented Chef Jake Addeo, using exclusively Double Zero (“00″) grade flour, the finest available in all of Italy. The restaurant runs on three basic principles: handmade pasta, traditional recipes from across the different regions of Italy, and seasonal, fresh ingredients. Elegant and modern, while also comfortable and homely, Doppio Zero is truly a place worth visiting.

Kevin Shih, GM of Trattoria Doppio Zero

I sat down with Kevin Shih, General Manager of Trattoria Doppio Zero, to discuss concept behind the cuisine and décor of the restaurant, the structure of their clientele, and, of course, the restaurant’s all-Italian wine list. Kevin explained that instead of offering the big brand names that are already very familiar among the restaurant’s highly (wine-)educated guests, they offer wines from smaller production boutique wineries from all over Italy, giving these labels the chance to shine as well. When asked to select a signature pairing which best represents Doppio Zero, Kevin chose the Beetroot and Gorgonzola Ravioli, which he paired with the 2010 Borgo dei Santi Pinot Grigio and the Tagliatelle Bolognese, with a 2007 Movia Lunar from Slovenia.
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Interview with Marco Di Giacomo, Restaurant Manager of DiVino Patio

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Upon attending the first ever wine pairing dinner of one of our newest Hong Kong venues, DiVino Patio, my curiosity was sparked about the restaurant’s wine program and how it matches up with its food concept. DiVino Patio is the latest addition to the four other very unique restaurants, which together make up the DiVino Group. Based on a 1950′s grocery-store style, the kitchen offers up traditional Italian home cooking to be enjoyed in the restaurant’s cozy al fresco environment. The wine program is based on the Italian alla mescita cultural philosophy and guests are encouraged to try by the glass multiple types of wine during each single visit. At DiVino Patio, time seems to slow down, and the art of living, eating and drinking is enjoyed to the fullest.

Marco di Giacomo, Restaurant Manager of DiVino Patio (Photo courtesy of DiVino)

I met up with Marco Di Giacomo, Restaurant Manager of DiVino Patio, to find out more about the food and wines offered at this already hugely popular Wanchai establishment. Marco described to me the concept behind DiVino Patio and what sets it apart from the other restaurants within the DiVino Group. He spoke of the inspiration behind the restaurant’s cuisine, as well as about the imported Italian ingredients used in the preparation of their dishes. He also explained to me the idea of alla mescita and how he manages to open so many bottles of wine without wasting any of them. Marco also let me in on some of the differences he has notices between the palates of his local and Western customers. When asked to choose a signature dish that best represents DiVino Patio, he chose the Porchetta (Spit-Roasted Suckling Pig) and paired it with Farnese Edizione Cinque Autoctoni.

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Interview with Owner Bridget Chen and Manager Daren Hon about the 798 Unit & Co. Wine Program

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798 Unit & Co. Bistro (Photo courtesy of 798 Unit & Co.)

Eager to find out a bit more about the modest yet carefully composed wine list at the two 798 Unit & Co. restaurants, I spoke to Bridget E. Chen, Owner and Director of 798 Unit & Co. and Daren Hon, Operations Manager of JAR | Just-a-Restaurant and 798 Unit & Co. Bistro. Daren explained to me the clever naming of the company and the restaurants, as well as what originally inspired these names. He also described the concept behind both JAR and 798 Unit & Co. Bistro: to deliver really good food in a place where everyone can eat and drink without necessarily needing a special occasion – hence the People’s Dining Hall. Bridget and Daren also discussed the 798 wine program and how the wine lists differ between the two restaurants. They spoke about the structure of the clientele and the trends that they have observed in how their different customers order their wine. When asked to choose a signature dish, which best represents the concept behind the cuisine at JAR and 798 Unit & Co. Bistro, they chose the Thick-Cut Pork Loin Chop with Roasted Pineapple, Apple-Potato Salad and Honey Mustard, which they paired with the semi-dry 2010 S.A. Prüm Riesling Essence from Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany.

Owner and Director Bridget E. Chen with Operations Manager Daren Hon (Photo courtesy of 798 Unit & Co.)

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Interview with Susan Darwin of California Vintage Restaurant, Wine Bar & Retail

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In the still largely Old World dominated wine market of Hong Kong, innovative neighborhood wine bars and retailers strive to clear up the misguided notion that only Bordeaux and Burgundies are worth drinking, and to encourage consumers to be more adventurous in selecting wines from New World regions as well.

California Vintage Wine Bar is at the forefront of this change, beckoning open-minded wine consumers and educating them on the versatile and dynamic character of California’s Wine Country. The group’s motto being “The Authentic Taste of California,” California Vintage successfully brings to Hong Kong the complete Californian experience: the warm, casual, industrial chic atmosphere, along with authentic West Coast cuisine and an extensive 90 label wine list from 22 family owned boutique wineries across The Golden State.

California Vintage Storefront (Photo courtesy of California Vintage)

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Interview with Ryan N Dela Pena, Manager of Rocksalt on the Stanley Promenade

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No day-trip to Stanley Beach is 100% complete without a nice glass of wine and some fresh seafood. The place to get it? Rocksalt restaurant, located on the Stanley Promenade at the mouth of the bustling Stanley Street Market. With its characteristically high ceilings and windows, Rocksalt truly reflects the natural beauty of the waterfront facing it. The cuisine offered is predominantly made up of fresh Australian seafood, including their famous Coffin Bay Oysters, with a few surprises on the menu as well, such as the kangaroo steak drizzled with red wine and caramelized bacon jus. What sets Rocksalt apart from other seafood restaurants in Stanley, however, is the signature salt used in their dishes; instead of ordinary table salt, the food is flavored or garnished with rock salts from different regions of the world, in order to better bring out the flavors of each dish.

Ryan N Dela Pena, Acting Manager of Rocksalt

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