In the warm Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island you will find a handful of amazing farms and top-notch wineries. On Cobble Hill you will find the Venturi Schulze vineyard that produces 100% estate-grown wines. The family run vineyard follows the basic philosophy of natural sustainability: no irrigations, no herbicides or pesticides in the vineyard, no chemicals in the winery outside of a small amount of sulphite added to some of our wines as an antioxidant to enable cellaring.

In the tradition of pairing local foods with local wines, we have taken Cowichan Valley wine and paired it with Cowichan Valley duck. Lyle and Fiona Young are the owner operators of their beautiful Cowichan Bay Farm. The Youngs follow sustainable agricultural traditions. Their Pastured Poultry is raised in the summer months outside in roomy moveable pens. The chickens and ducks they raise always have access to fresh grass, air and sunshine. In the winter months the birds are raised in warm and dry roomy barns with natural light. The feed used does not have any antibiotics or animal byproducts.

Executive Chef, Rick Choy, and his culinary team has taken duck from Cowichan and created a spring roll. The duck legs are BBQ’ed with a housemade BBQ sauce that has notes of spice and ginger. The duck is cut Julian style and wrapped up with carrots, diakon, celery, leeks and onions into a spring roll. The spring roll is deep fried to perfection and served piping hot.

During the past month I’ve spent most of my time in a car or hotel room, when not dropping in on all the world class winemakers on the West Coast who could make the time to help me get a better grasp of organic and Biodynamic® grape growing and winemaking. Elsewhere, I’ve filed reports on some of the issues regarding that, particularly in respect to groups who foster “sustainable” methods (i.e. generally meaning to say, growers who adapt organic practices, but without totally committing to them). Re two of these pieces: The War Between the Greens and A Consumer’s Precise Guide to Going Green.

Otherwise, here’s a rundown on some of the most exciting organic and Biodynamic® wines tasted over the past month:

REDS

Seven Springs Vineyard, Celebration Gamay 2008 (Eola-Amity Hills; uncertified organic/biodynamic grapes) – Employing nouveau vinification, but a far cry from the usual: vivid purplish ruby followed by teems of sweet blackberry (like the gushy wild fruit we were picking off the sides of the road during our entire two weeks in Oregon) and raspberry aromas; round, luscious, drippy in a zesty center; the sensations soft, yet dense enough with mild tannin to give a little bit of grip on the palate.

Seven Springs Vineyard, Les Gamine 2008 (Eola-Amity Hills; uncertified organic/biodynamic grapes) – Passetoutgrains inspired blend of authentic gamay (60%) and pinot noir; but again, because of the sheer, gorgeous intensity of this vineyard, more like a passetoutgrains of your dreams: vividly defined rouge on noir berry perfumes in complex, nuanced nose; marvelous interplay of zesty edge and silk/velvet textures, the luscious berry fruitiness emanating brightly on the palate. Utterly unique, compelling.

Seven Springs winemaker, Isabelle Meunier

Seven Springs Vineyard, La Source Pinot Noir 2007 (Eola-Amity Hills; noncertified organic/biodynamic grapes) – Oregon pinot noir lovers have been enthralled by this vineyard for years; and although, since being purchased by Evening Land Vineyards, its grapes are no longer going out to artisanals like Penner-Ash, Cristom and St. Innocent, rest assured that in the hands of French born winemaker Isabelle Meunier and über-consultant Dominique Lafon, Seven Springs pinots will be better than ever. The proof is already in the bottle: beautiful, luscious, fragrant array of rose petal, anisey spice, wild red berries, and blueberry jam in the nose. Velvety smooth entry leading to long, sweet flavors, anchored by sturdy tannin, solidifying the fruit once past the mouth-watering middle.

Maysara, Delara Pinot Noir 2006 (McMinnville; Biodynamic® grapes) – Given its unique locale at the furthest western, coastal edge of the Willamette Valley – strongly influenced by cooling winds pushing through the nearby Van Duzer Corridor – the McMinnville AVA is already associated with pinot noir of exhilarating breadth, more steely structured with acidity and tannin than pinots from the rest of Oregon. Delara is perhaps the most terroir driven of Maysara’s cuvées: its dense, fullsome body elevated by lively acidity, while amplified by its luscious, pungent fruitiness – sweet raspberry and strawberry jam infused with peppermint, pepper, and anise/licorice nuances.

Maysara, Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir 2008 (McMinnville; Biodynamic® grapes) – Slated for fall 2009 release, this cuvée shows the fully ripened, sweet fruit, silk texture, zesty edge, and moderated alcohol typical of this vineyard, as well as the bright qualities of this cool yet trouble-free vintage. Unfettered, wild strawberry in the nose, expressed in vibrant, fruit forward sensations on the palate, gliding clear through firmly defined tannins.

Winery: Marc Colin

Vintage: 2004

Appellation: Santenay

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Marc Colin

Average Price: $ 36 .00

Tasting notes: This a really interesting and delicious wine. Starting with its light and clear ruby color and a tiny bit of shininess. The nose tends to be complex after being open for a while. All those fruit (mostly black) scents coming right to your nose, as blackberry, ripped black cherry and cranberry. There is also a inch of oak balancing the nose and once you bring this wine to your palate it’s an explosion of flavours. Medium tannin and medium body, this wine is balanced. A rustic style to it, with a lot of fruits flavours (which are the same as the nose), but I think the earthiness of this wine and its high acidity make it simply beautiful and delicious. And even better because its length a little while too.

Food Pairing suggestions: As I said this wine is having a high acidity and is a bit earthy, which is something great when it comes to pair wine with food. My suggestion for dinner to accompany this Santenay will certainly start with a chilled green asparagus salad prepared with some extra virgin olive oil and mustard dressing. I would follow by a “Coq au Vin” (long time braised chicken in a red wine sauce with some aromatic onions and bacon) served with some grilled vegetables. And for the gourmet the best part: the dessert – I would finish this dinner with a creme brulee – as simple as that but still delicious.

This is a really good wine,  authentic wine, a Sit-down Bottle .

This past spring I attended two massive tasting events in California: the Hospice du Rhône (May 1-2) in Paso Robles, and World of Pinot Noir (March 6-7) in Shell Beach.

The upshot: there are now more great Pinot Noirs being made than you can shake a stick at. Pinot lovers these days feel like kids in a candy shop at venues like World of Pinot Noir. So as much for myself as for your possible interest, here are some of the highlights from that weekend in Shell Beach – all exceptional wines, worthy of a place in any wine list or cellar – out of some 150 total wines tasted, listed in rough order of my personal favorites (although I loved them all!):

I had given up on finding great Pinot Noirs in Argentina. At least I never really found the style that I personally like (smooth structure, earthy silky mouthfeel with aromas of strawberry style, lush but still complex, not missing the freshness),  so here is the absolute exception, so excited about it!!

Brand: Mudai

Winery: Palo Alto

Vintage: 2006

Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir