Last night I had the pleasure of being welcomed back to New York from France with something incredibly rare- from France. A few friends came to Rothmann’s for dinner with a bottle or three to wash down a porterhouse. The first two wines were classic left bank Bordeaux,  ’82 Talbot and ’88 Leoville Las Cases.

Both wines from St.-Julien showed well, the Talbot at or very close to it’s peak with cedar and tobacco and still a bit of cherry on the finish. Drink it now. Followed by the Leoville Las Cases, seeming like a wine half it’s age rich and opulent, black fruit, cedar, mint, minerality and well integrated oak. I would wait on this for awhile. One of the best examples of ’88  on the left bank from the best producer in St.-Julien.

After they had finished the steak, they moved outside to investigate the half bottle that had been chilling on ice behind the bar. We sat out on 54th street as the cement heat and humidity had become bearable after ten o’clock.  I poured four glasses of the Jean-Louis Grippat Hermitage Vin de Paille Blanc 1995, Apricot, cinnamon toast, candied orange peel, cardamon and almond butter on the nose, acidity highlighting the fruit and balance on the palate.  Long finish and gorgeous power and balance from a well kept bottle of a stellar vintage in the Northern Rhone Valley.  I would assume this is 100% Marsanne since this is what was contained in their vineyards…  I was told that 200 half bottles were produced of this wine in the 1995 vintage, although I have seen a quote that “900 half bottles are produced for us, en famille” in reference to the wine in question, not the 1995 vintage-  it is conceivable that the production would differ from vintage to vintage.

Venue: La Perla, a very nice hotel in a mountain valley over an hour’s drive from Bolzano.  (Or as the brochure says: “Only three hours from Venice.”)

Pierre Lurton, the Managing Director of Chateau d’Yquem and of Chateau Cheval Blanc, hosts the series of tastings.

We taste the 1934 d’Yquem in the attic of a typical mountain house. By that I mean there are holes in the walls and the steep narrow stairway (with treads worn to the width of a CD in spots) leading up to the room was authentic to the point of dangerous.

1934 Chateau d’Yquem Tawny with vibrant orange highlights. Bright. Clear rim. Fresh. Elegant and restrained. Shadows of tangerine liqueur on the nose. A broad silky sensation. Tightly woven. All the sensations on the nose carry through onto the palate, along with concentrated dried apricot notes. At this age and level, easy fruit signifiers really no longer apply. Long, satisfying finish.

After 30 minutes: The scents have evolved into an elegant, visceral memory of dried apricots.

Beaujolais might just be the perfect wine.

(Actually I’m trying to be diplomatic; I’m pretty sure that Jean Foillard’s 2007 Morgon – pictured here – IS in fact the perfect wine.)

If I were pressed to come up with my “Desert Island Top 10 Bottles” (à la Nick Hornby) it would be up at the top of the list along with Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose, Ostertag Munchberg Riesling, and Quintarelli Amarone  – not only because it’s amazing, but even more so because it is the most refreshing red wine I’ve yet found. Ideal for that island heat.

“What??” You say. “You mean that stuff with the colorful label that comes out in November?”

It is not easy to find affordable Medoc of classed growth quality, but recently I had a chance to try two very fine wines from that category with fair price of 15 and 20 Euros. First bottle was Chateau Potensac 2004. Unusual wine in many senses. First, it’s classified as a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, but its quality is way beyond average Cru Bourgeois and can reach at least fifth growth classed category. Then comes the “non only Cabernet” style which is pretty unusual for Medoc and finally ripe aromas and full body which is not expected at such average vintage as 2004 was.

I drink champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.” – Madam Lilly Bollinger

Brand: Esprit de 2002 Grand Cru brut

Winery: Pierre Peters

Vintage: 2002

Varietal: Chardonnay

Winemaking: All base wines are elaborated in stainless steel and are therefore very dry. The residual sugar is somewhere between 3 and 6 g/l depending on quality and vintage. Owner Rodolphe Peters decided not to label the Champagne „Extra Brut“. Only after extraordinary vintages this Champagne is made. The 2002 aged on it´s yeasts for 6 years and is the 2003´s successor, which was clearly lighter and came on the market before.

Average Price: € 39,00

Tasting Notes: On the palate hints of white fruits like peach and pear, also dominating citrus aromas. The intense scent of almonds and marzipan, the minerality and the crisp acidity are fabulous! It´s perfect when you let it breathe 3 or 4 minutes after pouring.

Long aging potential!