Millennial Wines

 The term Millennial Generation refers to consumers who are open-minded and willing to try things that are out of the ordinary – in fact they are people who seek out products and experiences that are extraordinary.  With that spirit in mind I have made a short list of wines I tasted at Vinitaly (the world’s largest annual wine trade fair) that fit this description. They are juicy and appealing but beyond all this – and what makes them Millennial – is that they also have soul, style and originality.   

2007 Bullulae Brut from Bruno Bortolotti (78% Lagrein, 15% Pinot Noir and 7% Ripasso Valpolicella)

This sparkling wine has a vivid, vibrant light ruby with definite rich red-orange highlights. It is the color of a wine that could proudly be served on the Starship Enterprise. In fact, it is, in my opinion, a wine of the future in that it manages to convey all the qualities of a fine, concentrated “important red” with the vivacity and liveliness of a superb sparkling wine.  The nose is a firm, decisive blend of bright berry fruits: raspberries, blueberries, a touch of cherry all captured in a net of softly citrusy zest.  On the palate it has a lovely – and surprising – creaminess. Again, I am left with the feeling that I am drinking something totally original and totally satisfying. It is a wonderful balance between graciousness and character. 

After 10 minutes in the glass the wine is still firm and fresh and inviting.

How did this unusual blend come about? “I noticed the affinity between  wines made from the Lagrein grape and Valpolicella Ripasso so I decided to experiment. You know I like to try new things,” says Bruno Bortolotti, whose company is located in the Veneto Region of Italy. (He also makes, in my opinion, the Prince of Proseccos.)   

When asked for a food match, Bruno says: “It is a wine to drink on its own. But if I had to pick something I would serve it with scampi risotto or pumpkin tortellini.”

2008 Erbaluce di Caluso from Benito Favero (100% Erbaluce) Pale gold. Bright, clean, refreshing. On the nose: freshness together with a creamy sensation. On the palate the idea of elderflowers mingles with soft white-fleshed fruits (some peaches, pears). On the middle palate the fruit flavor expands, all the while captured and kept firm by the lively minerality.  

“You need to give Erbaluce a lot of time to develop – just like some Soaves,” says Camillo Favero, winemaker at the estate, which is located in the Piedmont Region of Italy.

When asked for a an ideal match, Camillo suggests baked fish or roast white meats. 

2009 AS from Fattoria Zerbina (100% Albana) A sheen of pale straw with a clear rim. The fragrance rises up to meet you – full, fruity (apricots) with the idea of sweetness (although this is a dry wine) infused with a minerally acidity/freshness.  This pleasing sensation continues onto the palate and through the finish where the vivacious minerality becomes more evident.

The name AS derives from “Albano Secco”.  Cristina Geminiani, winemaker and owner of Fattoria Zerbina (which is located in the Italian Region of Emilia Romagna) suggests serving it with egg pasta dishes with vegetable-based sauces, or with soft, fresh cheeses (such as herbed goat’s cheese). 

2008 Soave “Monte Carbonare” from Suavia (100% Garganega)  A firm saturation of rich yellow, with a scrim of pea-green. The apricot-tinged fruit bursts out of the glass at the first sniff. Again the minerality seems to spin around the fruit, giving it a well-defined shape. The palate echoes the nose: apricot fruit and sprightly minerality. The apricot element broadens and dominates the lively finish.  A lovely wine.

After 10 minutes in the glass, the flavors and fragrances are even more finely knit. It takes on a sensation of heavy-silk on the palate. 

“We feel that the Carbonare is a true expression of its terroir,” says Meri Tessari, who with her sisters and parents, manages the Suavia estate.

“As regards pairing,” says Meri “I think Monte Carbonare is good with most fish-based dishes because it  respects the flesh of the fish, its salinity and delicate meat.  It is also excellent with vegetable and truffle risottos or medium-ripened cow’s milk cheese.”

Meri kindly provided some specific (and delicious-sounding) recommendations:  lime-marinated sardine bruschetta;  grilled red radicchio and Montasio cheese; risotto with pomegranate and Monte Veronese cheese;  pasta with zucchini, zucchini blossoms and ricotta; and almond-crusted sardines with savoy cabbage.

2009 Donnaluna from Viticoltori De Conciliis (100% Fiano)Pale gold, clear rim. Soft white-fleshed fruits contained in a fine mesh net of  zesty acidity. An intriguing salinity defines the flavor.  On the middle palate an attractive steely sensation emerges and the salinity (and minerality) seems to take on an almost visceral character – this is an excellent wine to serve with meals.  

When asked for a serving suggestion Bruno Di Conciliis says, “Spaghetti with clams – but with a good sauce – not one of those with a lot of burnt garlic!”. 

The Di Conciliis estate is located in Campania.  Bruno, by the way, petitioned and got permission to name a road near one of his vineyards: “via Frank Zappa”.  I like Bruno. 

2004 Ramuner from Zamuner (75% Pinot Nero, 10% Pinto Meunier, 15% Chardonnay) Golden yellow. It is round, easy and pleasing.  It has a very full, appealing perfume that gives the idea of ripe, fresh pears and apricots.  It is sweet on the nose but dry on the palate.

It is an a fine aperitif, particularly as its fruity fragrance makes it satisfying to drink without food.  “But it is also very good with ethnic dishes, “ says Daniele Zamuner. “Particularly Chicken curry.”    

2009 500 from Fattoria Zerbina  (96% Sangiovese, 4% Merlot) Right from the start this wine seems to shimmer with vibrancy. The color is a blue-tinged ruby with vivid scarlet highlights.  The fragrance is embracing. Its lush, velvety sensations ride high on a wave of bracing freshness. The fruit flavors  - strawberry, raspberry, blueberry  – are so well integrated that they become one glorious whole.

Its name -  500  (cinque-cento) – is reminiscent of the recently-released super compact Italian cars of the 50 and 60s and was chosen because the wine is only sold in 500 cl bottles.

“We know that people want to drink less these days at restaurants and at home, so we decided to bring out the wine in a smaller bottle,” says Cristina Geminani.   She suggests that the wine be served lightly chilled.

2008 Montebruna from Braida (100% Barbera)   Ripe rich plumy color. The fragrance conveys juicy, pulpy plums.  This is echoed on the palate: ripe, fresh, fruity – Barbera at its juicy best.  The acidity that is characteristic of the grape buoys the joyous fruit.

“I’d enjoy Montebruna with a great big juicy steak,” says Raffaella  Bologna, who with her brother and husband manages the Piedmontese estate.

Braida has long been known for its single-vineyard Barberas.  In fact, it was Giacomo Bologna (Raffaella’s father) who first recognized the grape’s potential for producing great, world-class wines.  With Montebruna the Bologna family has created a wine in line with the Millennial tastes: that is, a “real” wine, but one that dances across the palate. 

To read more about the daily life of a wine taster, visit www.patriciaguy.com

The Bardolino Banco d’Assaggio tasting at the lakeside town of Lazise in the Bardolino zone.

I tasted Chiarettos (both sparkling and still). Chiaretto refers to a rose wine made in the Bardolino zone. Some of the labels for the Chiarettos reminded me of Paris Hilton’s Bedroom (as seen on MTV). Their Hello Kitty Pink clashed with the actual color of the wine, which teeters between rose petal pink and orange.

The color is derived from the grape variety. The primary one in the Bardolino blend is usually  Corvina.  This grape is also part of the blend of Valpolicellas and Amarones.

The Bardolino production zone, generally speaking, lies between Lake Garda (Italy’s largest lake) and the Valpolicella zone in the Veneto region. For those who may have trouble spotting the Veneto on a map of Italy – it’s the region that includes Venice.

Around Lake Garda Sparkling Bardolino is often paired with grilled freshwater trout.  It also, of course, makes a nice, fresh drinks-party pour.

Here are some of my notes for the sparkling Bardolinos:  

Fulvio Benazzoli Chiaretto Spumante 2009 A vibrant rose-pink. Fresh. Floral nose. A crisp vibrant acidity lifts the wild berry fruit. Clean finish.  After 10 minutes in the glass it is still firm and fresh.

Cantina di Castelnuovo del Garda Chiaretto Spumante  Orangey-rose. Very lively color. On the palate: soft, undefined (but not unpleasant) fruit. A nice vibration on the palate. A cream soda (in a good way) undertow on the finish.

Costadoro Chiaretto Spumante  An attractive orangey-pink. Fresh. An idea of mustard bursts on the middle palate. This is a surprise – to say the least. But once I identify it  - it is rather nice.  It livens up the soft fruit flavors (mulberry, raspberry).Satisfying finish.

Monte Oliveto Chiaretto Spumante Orange with a rose scrim – a soft wad of fresh berry fruit held in shape by a fine net of acidity.   

Villabella Chiaretto Spumante Soft but firm fruit. Appealing. A touch of dry caramel on the finish, which is not unpleasant.

Monte Saline Chiaretto Spumante This is the only wine to be made with the Champagne Method.  This means that the second fermentation – the one that creates the bubbles – occurs in bottle rather than in a tank.  A lovely vibrant pale orange dominates the rose petal-pink color. It is the color of a wine that could be served on the Starship Enterprise.  A firm, appealing fragrance of strawberries. Very silky entry. Nice texture. Clean flavorful finish.

I then tasted through the still Bardolino Chiarettos. Here are a few of my notes:

Natale Castellani 2009 Bardolino Chiaretto  Nice saturation of rose. Very pleasing, nicely balanced – an elegant wine.  The fruit flavors – an amalgam of raspberry, mulberry and  wild berries – merge seamlessly. 

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Chiaretto Vibrant pink to clear rim. A fresh yet soft nose. Round yet firm fruit. The words “a workman-like job” come to mind. This is not a bad thing.  A client ordering this in a restaurant would be satisfied.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Chiaretto Soft nose. On the palate, the firm yet easy fruit indicates that the wine can be served on its own. I can see this as a popular “drinks party” wine.

Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto.  Pale scrim of rose petal pink with a touch of orange. A nice mouthful of soft fruit that is surrounded by a firm, fine net of acidity. This very elegant wine has a screw cap. I hope more producers make the decision to switch to this type of closure with wines that are not intended for decades of cellaring.

Le Tende Bardolino Chiaretto A fine, elegant mouthful. An appealing wine.

Monte del Fra Bardolino Chiaretto Pale. An obvious softness on the nose. Soft, round, easy. I really need not say more. 

For those who want to read more about my adventure in Bardolino or about The Incident of the Imperious Sommelier – in my March Diary, which will be posted on my website the first week in April.

Cheers,

Patricia

Sangiovese di Romagna

The Sangiovese di Romagna D.O.C. should be very easy to market and sell.  After all, it has one of the few official Italian denominations that is easy to understand: Sangiovese is the grape variety and Romagna is the region (Emilia-Romagna) where the wine is produced.

That it is not flying off the shelves of wine shops around the world is due, in part, to the fact that many consumers have yet to realize that the silky textures and bitter cherry flavors that they appreciate in such famous wines as Chianti and Brunello comes from the Sangiovese grape. Another contributing factor is that few wine magazines and wine shop owners are willing to promote wines that come from beyond the borders of the more popular regions of Tuscany, Piedmont and, more recently, Sicily.

So, my friends, I am here to tell you to try Sangiovese di Romagna wines.  Those from the best producers are luscious, satisfying, versatile and long lived.  They also often offer excellent value for money. 

Here are the notes on my favorite Sangiovese di Romagna wines tasted on February 21, 2010 in the  town of Faenza (in the region of Emilia-Romagna).

2009 Sangiovese di Romagna “Thea” produced by Tre Monte. Vibrant fuchsia-infused cherry red. On the nose a soft weave of ripe fruit revolves around a firm, fine acidity.  A warm plumy fruit on the palate. An idea of dark chocolate. Long satisfying finish.

2009 Sangiovese di Romagna “Pietramora” produced by Fattoria Zerbina.  A soft, deep rose sheen over rich ruby. On the nose a tight weave – silky texture – cherry-like fruit, a touch of minerality . Very silky on the entry then it expands on the middle-palate becoming almost velvety. A fine ripple of ripe cherries, a light touch of prunes. Lively, uplifting mineral zestiness.

2009 Sangiovese di Romagna “Pruno” produced by Drei Dona Tenuta La Palazza.  A Christmasy spicy fruit shot through with uplifting steely notes. The fruit is on the plumy side. It develops a velvety texture on the finish. Long.  Satisfying.

2005 Sangiovese di Romagna “Ari” produced by San Patrignano. Silky texture. A fresh appealing knobbly blend of blackberry, bitter cherry fruit. Satisfying finish.

1997 Sangiovese di Romagna “Pietramora” produced by Fattoria Zerbina.  An involving fruity warmth. A very inviting wine. Gives smooth, sensual pleasure. An amalgam of ripe cherries, plums with a firm undertow of tar. A fine wine.

I tasted the following wine at my home on February 10th

2000 “Graf Noir” from Drei Dona Tenuta La Palazza (made form primarily Sangiovese, Negretto Longanesi and Cabernet Franc). A very rich, softly diffused ruby with a warm near-brown sheen. A fine supporting acidity surrounded by very ripe berry fruit – cherry, raspberry, wild berry fruit. A silky texture that caresses the mouth. (Forgive me but that is what I felt.)  A fine, soft weave of fruit (cherry, very ripe plums) and an almost minerally zest.  Long, flavorful finish.  Satisfying.

For notes on other Sangiovese di Romagnas I sample at the tasting or for a look at the life of a professional wine taster go to my site: www.patriciaguy.com

Cheers,

Patricia

In the warm Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island you will find a handful of amazing farms and top-notch wineries. On Cobble Hill you will find the Venturi Schulze vineyard that produces 100% estate-grown wines. The family run vineyard follows the basic philosophy of natural sustainability: no irrigations, no herbicides or pesticides in the vineyard, no chemicals in the winery outside of a small amount of sulphite added to some of our wines as an antioxidant to enable cellaring.

In the tradition of pairing local foods with local wines, we have taken Cowichan Valley wine and paired it with Cowichan Valley duck. Lyle and Fiona Young are the owner operators of their beautiful Cowichan Bay Farm. The Youngs follow sustainable agricultural traditions. Their Pastured Poultry is raised in the summer months outside in roomy moveable pens. The chickens and ducks they raise always have access to fresh grass, air and sunshine. In the winter months the birds are raised in warm and dry roomy barns with natural light. The feed used does not have any antibiotics or animal byproducts.

Executive Chef, Rick Choy, and his culinary team has taken duck from Cowichan and created a spring roll. The duck legs are BBQ’ed with a housemade BBQ sauce that has notes of spice and ginger. The duck is cut Julian style and wrapped up with carrots, diakon, celery, leeks and onions into a spring roll. The spring roll is deep fried to perfection and served piping hot.

Sadly, there are many people out there who say that wine causes them headaches – even migraines. Sometimes it’s easy to pass this off as a hangover (and/or blame it on the questionable wine your friend brought over last night), but there may be more to it than that – there are several (organic) compounds found in vino that you may actually be allergic to. When a recent round of migraines forced me to consider the frightening possibility of this being my own situation, I decided to look into it a bit more. (Personally I have yet to decide which is a worse fate – life with migraines, or life without wine.)

Fortunately I’m now pretty sure that my headaches have nothing to do with my favorite libation, but if you think you are cursed, maybe I hope this will help you figure out what’s going on. If you can pinpoint exactly what hurts, at the very least you may be able to determine which over-the-counter medicine to take before the next wine dinner or tasting that you just have to go to.

(Rather than scattering this post with lots of links to the same place, I’ll just confess that most of what I didn’t know here came from Wikipedia – as well as a couple of tidbits from a good medical friend who is internet-shy and will therefore remain anonymous)