Venue: Hotel Louis C. Jacob in Hamburg, Germany

Before the tasting begins we are served 1999 Giulio Ferrari from magnums as an aperitif. This sparkling wine from the Trentino Region is based on Chardonnay. The wine is superbly balanced. It is rich, bright gold and has a creamy vibrancy on the palate. Exceptionally satisfying.

The 1999 vintage in Tuscany is not considered top-notch, so I am curious to see how these famous wines developed over the last decade.

The group of tasters assembled is relatively small – about 30. Both Piero and Ludovico Antinori are there.

“We are happy to have both brothers together,” says Anton, our host from the Ariane Abayan wine importing company. He goes on to add: “This tasting is for fun – no need to make comments just a few ohs and ahs will suffice.”

We taste the wines blind.

1999 Merlot La Braccesca Dark, bright, vibrant. A broad elegance on the nose. A green note. The finish has a knubbly warmth.

1999 Podere Il Bosco Tenimenti d’Alessandro Syrah. A lively bullet of fruit. A mouth coating marmalade fruit on the finish. A light sprinkling of black pepper.

1999Morellino Castello di Montepo Sangiovese and Cabernet Tar, hard. Not satisfying for me.

1999 Torrione Petrole Sangiovese & Merlot A silky sensation on the inhale, fruit rises and entwine with zesty acidity. Compressed, but velvety satisfying. Long finish that echoes all that came before.

1999 Lupicaia Cabernet & Merlot A dense, near opaque color. A grassy note rides high, lifting a velvety sensation. A soft but firm astringency then juicy fruit emerges.

1999 Sammarco Castello die Rampolla Cabernet & Sangiovese. A silky bolt of fruit on the nose and palate. A burst of heat and tar on the middle palate.

“This is the wine that will last the longest,” says Ludovico Antinori, before the identities of the wines are revealed.

1999 Solaia Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc Grassy. I think: Old-fashioned French. There is a silkiness on entry. A fine, tight weave of fruit and acidity. Very satisfying.

1999 Sassicaia Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc Tar. A very fine sensation on the palate. A fine, easy, rounded mouthful of compressed plumy fruit – shot through with tar and citrus zest. Long finish.

“I would never go in my cellar and get a 1999,” says Ludovico Antinori, who is seated beside me. “I always considered the 1999 to be second rate. But now I will drink it.”

“If you can find any,” says his brother.

1999 Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc A wonderful soft base of plumy fruit spiked with persistent acidity.

1999 Rosso di Montalcino Biondi Santi Tenuta Greppo I drew a line through my note indicating that I was not impressed by the wine. But then, Rosso di Montalcinos are not meant to have long lives.

1999 Brunello di Montalcino Pian delle Vigne Piero Antinori A bit of volatility riding on top. Harder and thinner than many of the others.

1999 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Biondi Santi Pale. Silky but on the verge of being past it. It narrows with every second. After 5 minutes it is falling apart. After 7 minutes it is gone.

As an aside, at dinner I ask my German colleagues to tell me their favorite English word – based on the sound. Here they are: moist, hilarious, eternity.

Labels: Italy, Super Tuscans

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