During the past month I’ve spent most of my time in a car or hotel room, when not dropping in on all the world class winemakers on the West Coast who could make the time to help me get a better grasp of organic and Biodynamic® grape growing and winemaking. Elsewhere, I’ve filed reports on some of the issues regarding that, particularly in respect to groups who foster “sustainable” methods (i.e. generally meaning to say, growers who adapt organic practices, but without totally committing to them). Re two of these pieces: The War Between the Greens and A Consumer’s Precise Guide to Going Green.

Otherwise, here’s a rundown on some of the most exciting organic and Biodynamic® wines tasted over the past month:

REDS

Seven Springs Vineyard, Celebration Gamay 2008 (Eola-Amity Hills; uncertified organic/biodynamic grapes) – Employing nouveau vinification, but a far cry from the usual: vivid purplish ruby followed by teems of sweet blackberry (like the gushy wild fruit we were picking off the sides of the road during our entire two weeks in Oregon) and raspberry aromas; round, luscious, drippy in a zesty center; the sensations soft, yet dense enough with mild tannin to give a little bit of grip on the palate.

Seven Springs Vineyard, Les Gamine 2008 (Eola-Amity Hills; uncertified organic/biodynamic grapes) – Passetoutgrains inspired blend of authentic gamay (60%) and pinot noir; but again, because of the sheer, gorgeous intensity of this vineyard, more like a passetoutgrains of your dreams: vividly defined rouge on noir berry perfumes in complex, nuanced nose; marvelous interplay of zesty edge and silk/velvet textures, the luscious berry fruitiness emanating brightly on the palate. Utterly unique, compelling.

Seven Springs winemaker, Isabelle Meunier

Seven Springs Vineyard, La Source Pinot Noir 2007 (Eola-Amity Hills; noncertified organic/biodynamic grapes) – Oregon pinot noir lovers have been enthralled by this vineyard for years; and although, since being purchased by Evening Land Vineyards, its grapes are no longer going out to artisanals like Penner-Ash, Cristom and St. Innocent, rest assured that in the hands of French born winemaker Isabelle Meunier and über-consultant Dominique Lafon, Seven Springs pinots will be better than ever. The proof is already in the bottle: beautiful, luscious, fragrant array of rose petal, anisey spice, wild red berries, and blueberry jam in the nose. Velvety smooth entry leading to long, sweet flavors, anchored by sturdy tannin, solidifying the fruit once past the mouth-watering middle.

Maysara, Delara Pinot Noir 2006 (McMinnville; Biodynamic® grapes) – Given its unique locale at the furthest western, coastal edge of the Willamette Valley – strongly influenced by cooling winds pushing through the nearby Van Duzer Corridor – the McMinnville AVA is already associated with pinot noir of exhilarating breadth, more steely structured with acidity and tannin than pinots from the rest of Oregon. Delara is perhaps the most terroir driven of Maysara’s cuvées: its dense, fullsome body elevated by lively acidity, while amplified by its luscious, pungent fruitiness – sweet raspberry and strawberry jam infused with peppermint, pepper, and anise/licorice nuances.

Maysara, Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir 2008 (McMinnville; Biodynamic® grapes) – Slated for fall 2009 release, this cuvée shows the fully ripened, sweet fruit, silk texture, zesty edge, and moderated alcohol typical of this vineyard, as well as the bright qualities of this cool yet trouble-free vintage. Unfettered, wild strawberry in the nose, expressed in vibrant, fruit forward sensations on the palate, gliding clear through firmly defined tannins.

There is a Napa Valley that exists on neither map nor vehicle navigation system; a place that so few people ever get to experience.  To find yourself here, you must first give up the search for a destination and relinquish to love, passion and an acute awareness that every moment is a beautiful opportunity to live life to its fullest potential.  I am speaking of a Napa Valley as lived through the lives of the many hope filled starry eyed individuals known to be in”the industry”.  Most wine lovers far and wide make a number of pilgrimages to this Mecca of food and wine. One might see a photo album on facebook dedicated to a recent Napa journey, or quite possibly receive a phone call full of exciting stories of vineyards and life changing 7 course meals. This image of Napa is one most everyone comes to accept and understand. Nearly a year and a half ago I too believed this to be the only kind of Napa there was to experience. What I have found since then has been so drastically different that it has taken me quite some time to truly soak it all in and find the words to tell the story of “the valley”

I find that living in the valley as apart of the wine industry could, as far as I can imagine, be similar in experience to a young starving actor living in Hollywood during its early glory days so many decades ago. There is no other industry in which the separation of legend to novice is so thin and fragile. Wine unlike other genres finds is roots deep within a certain method of living. In Napa, there is no other way to live other than with great food, spectacular wine, and an abundance of love. The focus here is on the small things in life. Passion is the fuel of which we all run on. Everywhere I look, each day I live here, I find myself surrounded by people who care about a beautiful sunset as much as a paycheck.  I hope to give the entaste readers a sneak peak into the Napa Valley that I have come to know.  The industry is at times an unforgiving one, but the struggles are minute and insignificant in comparison to the good times and personal victories.

Venue: Treiso, Piedmont

Producers of particular note:
Cá del Baio – 40 year old vineyards and a lovely young spokesperson/daughter.
2006 Barbaresco Asili Cá del Baio – The wine has a silky entry that expands to an attractive knubbly sensation. The palate echoes the nose: fresh, high-toned.  The fruit is a subtle amalgam of ripe plums and bitter cherries. There is an upright elegance about this wine.
2006 Barbaresco Valgrande Cá del Baio – Fresh, firm, uplifting nose. Again an excellent compatibility between nose and palate. Rich within its narrow band of flavors.
Varaldo – I have tasted wines from this estate often in the last 10 years and always found them satisfying. They are wines that give pleasure.
2006 Barbaresco Sorì Loreto Varaldo – Bruised plum flavor. On the nose a soft, ripe plum element riding a wave of bright acidity. Very fruity (within this context): plums, ripe bitter-cherries. The finish is dry with a plum-skin astringency.
2006 Bricco Libero Varaldo A deeper plum/ruby color, with an old rose rim.  On the nose, Nebbiolo silk sensations, with fine wood tannins. On the palate, full, spicy, with a hint of plum-skin astringency on the long finish. “Sleek as a seal” I wrote in my notes.
“In 10 to 15 years,” says Rino Varaldo, owner of the estate. “It will be perfect.”
When asked about the name of Bricco Libero, Rino says: “We bought the land from a man whose last name was Libero.  He was a very calm person. He had a strong character but he still managed to be nice.  So we decided to name the wine after him.”
The older Barbaresco vintages were tasted at a dinner held at the La Ciau del Tornavento restaurant in Treiso.