The wine, Broncone Bordolese Deco IGT 2001 is made by Dr. Gianfrancesco Paoletti with the aide of Dr. Giacomo Taschis. On the nose the wine shows dusty cherry,  dried raspberry, clove, dried oregano and rosemary with a bit of earth, leather and chestnuts.   On the palate the balance is incredible, tart cherries, dried cherries and an elegant structure and long finish.  This is drinking beautifully now but could age for at least 10-15 years.  Textbook example of the true character and potential of Sangiovese.

The wine is not cheap nor easy to find, 2000 numbered bottles of the 750ml  and 1515 bottles of 1500ml were produced although the artwork on each is different.

And that of course is what takes this wine (besides my Sangiovese-centric praise) to a collectible level.  On each bottle there is artwork created and certified by the Museo Ideale Leonardo da Vinci,

and of course, I have bin scuffs on the one now on display at Rothmann’s due to the largish size of the bottle and the eager aggressive way this sommelier pulled it from the rack (let that be an expensive lesson to me).

http://www.lafucinadileonardo.com/inglese/semplici/cultura.html

Worth searching for this wine, despite the price -for the traditional and superb expression of fruit inside of it, the artwork and uniqueness of the bottles themselves and to reclaim Leonard Da Vinci for the rest of us from a airport paperback.

The family Frutos Villar were already trading wines in the region around the town of Toro (province of Castilla y Leon in the north-west of Spain) at the begining of the last century, their own winery was then founded in 1920. Today, José Luis Villar Rodríguez is the head of the 4th generation´s team. It it them, together with other 3 wineries in the area, who are actually responsible for the foundation of this relatively new D.O. TORO. Beeing such a traditional cellar, this family has definitely managed to develop itself and meets up with the most modern standards of winemaking today. The wines that convinced me from the begining on are their „Muruve“ wines. The „Joven“, “Roble“, „Crianza“ and „Reserva“ are clearly defined, there is a consequent step-up to the next higher quality which you maybe think is strange that I mention it. But this is actually something that you don´t find necessarily very naturally all the time. The grapes for the „Joven“ and the „Roble“ are meanwhile harvested by mashines, the grapes for the „Crianza“ and the „Reserva“ are harvested manually. All four wines are 100% Tempranillo and profit from the high average age oft he vineyards, th oldest vines are more than a 100 years old. For the aging the bodega uses mostly American oak: fort he „Roble“ entirely, for the „Crianza“ and the „Reserva“ with a small percentage of French oak. The „dosis“ of oak is very much in balance with the fruit, the wines are wonderfully harmonic , without trying to cover the typical, natural vigor oft he wines of D.O. Toro.

Brand: Muruve

Winery: Bodegas Frutos del Villar

Vintage: 2006

Varietal: 100% Tempranillo (here called „Tinta de Toro“)

Winemaking: Traditional maceration in stainless steel vats with 100% de-stemmed grapes. 3 – 4 pump-overs per day. Temperature controlled fermentation for 15 – 20 days. After a setting period, the wine is filled into the barrels (90% American, 10% French) where it is aged for 20 months. Racking every 3 months.

Alcohol: 14,5 % Vol.

Average Price: 18 Eur

Tasting notes: very attractive and complex nose, almost right after opening up the bottle. Elegant structure, no voluminous body! Fresh red berry fruit perfectly combined with the coconut and vanilla flavors of the barrels. Nice spice! Hints of herbs and some smoky notes. Incredibly stable (I opened the bottle and only had one glass, finished the bottle 4 days later, and it was still absolutely amazing, hadn´t changed a bit! I was impressed!)

Food Pairing suggestions: well marinated red meats

General Rating: 4 tastevins

Catergories: sit-down, food wine

Donnafugata is based in Sicily, where the company produces a range of exceptionally appealing reds and whites.  However, the jewels in its crown are the wines it makes on the tiny volcanic island of Pantelleria, which lies between Sicily and Africa.  There Donnafugata grows Zibibbo (a.k.a. Moscato di Alessandria).  Each vine is left to form its own small bush.  (In other areas, vines are usually trained onto wires to form tidy rows.) These bushes grow close to the ground and as a consequence are somewhat protected from the winds that sweep across the island.  Some of the vines are over 100 years old and, as you can imagine all work in the vineyards must be carried out by hand. 

“The vines grow horizontal to the earth,” says Jose Rallo, whose family owns Donnafugata. “It takes a lot of hard work to tend them.  You have to really believe in the wines.” 

She confesses that Ben Rye, the company’s exquisite sweet wine whose name in Arabic means “child of the wind”, is her favorite wine.    “Loving it is almost a duty for me,” she says. “I have to love  it and make others love it.”

I was fortunate enough to taste 4 vintages of Ben Rye at the recent Vinitaly wine trade fair held in Verona.  Here are my notes. 

2002 Ben Rye. A vibrant yellow sheen over a clear, fine tangerine/pale toffee color; clear rim. The nose presents a bright amalgam of citrus (citron, tangerine), with shadows of apricots and figs and a soft, broad grapiness. It is sprinkled with fine, warm spices. The palate echoes the nose. The sensations are firm, the ideas of figs and blossoms broaden and are joined by flavors of fresh pine nuts.  The flavor evolves in the long, fine finish.  The shades of  figs and ripe but firm apricots remain on the palate long after the wine itself has gone.  

After 10 minutes: It remains firm and satisfying with a youthful vivacity. A lovely experience.

After 15 minutes: Its freshness holds.

After 20 minutes: Still appealing, still firmly presenting its luscious fragrances and flavors.

“Zibibbo is an aromatic variety,” says Jose “For us the 2002 is a benchmark vintage. It has  great acidity that balances the fullness of the flavors.”

2005 Ben Rye Vibrant. Lightly colored rim. A pea green sheen over a tawny color, with vivid tangerine highlights.  Fresh, uplifting nose. The freshness is dominant on the nose followed half a beat later by a clean orange-lemon marmalade tinged sensation. A very tight weave on the palate. Again shades of apricots, orange marmalade and  tangerines, with a nuance of fresh hazelnuts. A fine line of rich fruit defines the very long faftertaste.

After 10 minutes: The ripe apricot element unfolds on the nose and palate like silk and a sprinkling of tangerine zest emerges.

After 15 minutes: The apricot settles down and melds with the zest. The finish is even more intriguing.

After 20 minutes: It is still fine and fresh.

2008 Ben Rye More yellow in the yellow/tawny blend of colors. The tangerine highlights are softer.  There is the suggestion of an expensive scented powder on the nose. (Dior comes to mind, I do not know why.) This lies over a broad apricot note. On the palate the very ripe apricot notes are fully and richly expressed, yet all the while the lively zesty acidity shapes and enlivens the flavors. Very lively on the palate. The finish is a-tingle with pleasing sensations: ripe fruit, tangerine zest and a touch of very fresh pine nuts.

“The 2008,” says Jose. “is like a festa. It has a new label, one that recalls the land and the hard work we have done on Pantelleria.”

After 10 minutes:  The wine opens up and the apricot becomes even more generous and inviting. I detect notes of ripe figs.

After 15 minutes:  A generous mouthful.  The sensation of a comforting cloud of very ripe apricots on the nose.  The palate, too, reveals a broad, complex range of flavors.

After 20 minutes. It maintains its luscious generosity.

Last year I served some Italian friends a bottle of 2005 Ben Rye.  Let me recount that event here. We served the wine with a Grand Marnier infused cake, decorated with orange slices and gold- flaked pieces of chocolate.

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye 2005 (this note was written a year ago).  Golden tinged with orange. A fresh, full perfume of orange blossoms, mandarin oranges and acacia honey. These ideas carry through onto the palate.  High-toned. An idea of dried apricots.  The richness is lifted and shaped by sprightly acidity.

We scored big points with our friends, particularly Ugo.  (Ugo, like most Italians, just does not “get” the pleasures of older vintages.) The Ben Rye, however, brought comments like: “It has such elegance!”  Ugo turned to his wife, Stefi, and said: “Remember when I saw this wine at the restaurant in Trieste and I said: these people have good taste!”   

“Is this a Pantelleria?”  asked Stefi.

“This is Pantelleria!” replied Ugo, raising his glass.

To learn more about the daily life of a wine taster visit my website: www.patriciaguy.com

Donnafugata is based in Sicily, where the company produces a range of exceptionally appealing reds and whites.  However, the jewels in its crown are the wines it makes on the tiny volcanic island of Pantelleria, which lies between Sicily and Africa.  There Donnafugata grows Zibibbo (a.k.a. Moscato di Alessandria).  Each vine is left to form its own small bush.  (In other areas, vines are usually trained onto wires to form tidy rows.) These bushes grow close to the ground and as a consequence are somewhat protected from the winds that sweep across the island.  Some of the vines are over 100 years old and, as you can imagine all work in the vineyards must be carried out by hand. 

“The vines grow horizontal to the earth,” says Jose Rallo, whose family owns Donnafugata. “It takes a lot of hard work to tend them.  You have to really believe in the wines.” 

She confesses that Ben Rye, the company’s exquisite sweet wine whose name in Arabic means “child of the wind”, is her favorite wine.    “Loving it is almost a duty for me,” she says. “I have to love  it and make others love it.”

I was fortunate enough to taste 4 vintages of Ben Rye at the recent Vinitaly wine trade fair held in Verona.  Here are my notes. 

2002 Ben Rye. A vibrant yellow sheen over a clear, fine tangerine/pale toffee color; clear rim. The nose presents a bright amalgam of citrus (citron, tangerine), with shadows of apricots and figs and a soft, broad grapiness. It is sprinkled with fine, warm spices. The palate echoes the nose. The sensations are firm, the ideas of figs and blossoms broaden and are joined by flavors of fresh pine nuts.  The flavor evolves in the long, fine finish.  The shades of  figs and ripe but firm apricots remain on the palate long after the wine itself has gone.  

After 10 minutes: It remains firm and satisfying with a youthful vivacity. A lovely experience.

After 15 minutes: Its freshness holds.

After 20 minutes: Still appealing, still firmly presenting its luscious fragrances and flavors.

“Zibibbo is an aromatic variety,” says Jose “For us the 2002 is a benchmark vintage. It has  great acidity that balances the fullness of the flavors.”

2005 Ben Rye Vibrant. Lightly colored rim. A pea green sheen over a tawny color, with vivid tangerine highlights.  Fresh, uplifting nose. The freshness is dominant on the nose followed half a beat later by a clean orange-lemon marmalade tinged sensation. A very tight weave on the palate. Again shades of apricots, orange marmalade and  tangerines, with a nuance of fresh hazelnuts. A fine line of rich fruit defines the very long faftertaste.

After 10 minutes: The ripe apricot element unfolds on the nose and palate like silk and a sprinkling of tangerine zest emerges.

After 15 minutes: The apricot settles down and melds with the zest. The finish is even more intriguing.

After 20 minutes: It is still fine and fresh.

2008 Ben Rye More yellow in the yellow/tawny blend of colors. The tangerine highlights are softer.  There is the suggestion of an expensive scented powder on the nose. (Dior comes to mind, I do not know why.) This lies over a broad apricot note. On the palate the very ripe apricot notes are fully and richly expressed, yet all the while the lively zesty acidity shapes and enlivens the flavors. Very lively on the palate. The finish is a-tingle with pleasing sensations: ripe fruit, tangerine zest and a touch of very fresh pine nuts.

“The 2008,” says Jose. “is like a festa. It has a new label, one that recalls the land and the hard work we have done on Pantelleria.”

After 10 minutes:  The wine opens up and the apricot becomes even more generous and inviting. I detect notes of ripe figs.

After 15 minutes:  A generous mouthful.  The sensation of a comforting cloud of very ripe apricots on the nose.  The palate, too, reveals a broad, complex range of flavors.

After 20 minutes. It maintains its luscious generosity.

Last year I served some Italian friends a bottle of 2005 Ben Rye.  Let me recount that event here. We served the wine with a Grand Marnier infused cake, decorated with orange slices and gold- flaked pieces of chocolate.

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye 2005 (this note was written a year ago).  Golden tinged with orange. A fresh, full perfume of orange blossoms, mandarin oranges and acacia honey. These ideas carry through onto the palate.  High-toned. An idea of dried apricots.  The richness is lifted and shaped by sprightly acidity.

We scored big points with our friends, particularly Ugo.  (Ugo, like most Italians, just does not “get” the pleasures of older vintages.) The Ben Rye, however, brought comments like: “It has such elegance!”  Ugo turned to his wife, Stefi, and said: “Remember when I saw this wine at the restaurant in Trieste and I said: these people have good taste!”   

“Is this a Pantelleria?”  asked Stefi.

“This is Pantelleria!” replied Ugo, raising his glass.

To learn more about the daily life of a wine taster visit my website: www.patriciaguy.com

Donnafugata is based in Sicily, where the company produces a range of exceptionally appealing reds and whites.  However, the jewels in its crown are the wines it makes on the tiny volcanic island of Pantelleria, which lies between Sicily and Africa.  There Donnafugata grows Zibibbo (a.k.a. Moscato di Alessandria).  Each vine is left to form its own small bush.  (In other areas, vines are usually trained onto wires to form tidy rows.) These bushes grow close to the ground and as a consequence are somewhat protected from the winds that sweep across the island.  Some of the vines are over 100 years old and, as you can imagine all work in the vineyards must be carried out by hand. 

“The vines grow horizontal to the earth,” says Jose Rallo, whose family owns Donnafugata. “It takes a lot of hard work to tend them.  You have to really believe in the wines.” 

She confesses that Ben Rye, the company’s exquisite sweet wine whose name in Arabic means “child of the wind”, is her favorite wine.    “Loving it is almost a duty for me,” she says. “I have to love  it and make others love it.”

I was fortunate enough to taste 4 vintages of Ben Rye at the recent Vinitaly wine trade fair held in Verona.  Here are my notes. 

2002 Ben Rye. A vibrant yellow sheen over a clear, fine tangerine/pale toffee color; clear rim. The nose presents a bright amalgam of citrus (citron, tangerine), with shadows of apricots and figs and a soft, broad grapiness. It is sprinkled with fine, warm spices. The palate echoes the nose. The sensations are firm, the ideas of figs and blossoms broaden and are joined by flavors of fresh pine nuts.  The flavor evolves in the long, fine finish.  The shades of  figs and ripe but firm apricots remain on the palate long after the wine itself has gone.  

After 10 minutes: It remains firm and satisfying with a youthful vivacity. A lovely experience.

After 15 minutes: Its freshness holds.

After 20 minutes: Still appealing, still firmly presenting its luscious fragrances and flavors.

“Zibibbo is an aromatic variety,” says Jose “For us the 2002 is a benchmark vintage. It has  great acidity that balances the fullness of the flavors.”

2005 Ben Rye Vibrant. Lightly colored rim. A pea green sheen over a tawny color, with vivid tangerine highlights.  Fresh, uplifting nose. The freshness is dominant on the nose followed half a beat later by a clean orange-lemon marmalade tinged sensation. A very tight weave on the palate. Again shades of apricots, orange marmalade and  tangerines, with a nuance of fresh hazelnuts. A fine line of rich fruit defines the very long faftertaste.

After 10 minutes: The ripe apricot element unfolds on the nose and palate like silk and a sprinkling of tangerine zest emerges.

After 15 minutes: The apricot settles down and melds with the zest. The finish is even more intriguing.

After 20 minutes: It is still fine and fresh.

2008 Ben Rye More yellow in the yellow/tawny blend of colors. The tangerine highlights are softer.  There is the suggestion of an expensive scented powder on the nose. (Dior comes to mind, I do not know why.) This lies over a broad apricot note. On the palate the very ripe apricot notes are fully and richly expressed, yet all the while the lively zesty acidity shapes and enlivens the flavors. Very lively on the palate. The finish is a-tingle with pleasing sensations: ripe fruit, tangerine zest and a touch of very fresh pine nuts.

“The 2008,” says Jose. “is like a festa. It has a new label, one that recalls the land and the hard work we have done on Pantelleria.”

After 10 minutes:  The wine opens up and the apricot becomes even more generous and inviting. I detect notes of ripe figs.

After 15 minutes:  A generous mouthful.  The sensation of a comforting cloud of very ripe apricots on the nose.  The palate, too, reveals a broad, complex range of flavors.

After 20 minutes. It maintains its luscious generosity.

Last year I served some Italian friends a bottle of 2005 Ben Rye.  Let me recount that event here. We served the wine with a Grand Marnier infused cake, decorated with orange slices and gold- flaked pieces of chocolate.

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye 2005 (this note was written a year ago).  Golden tinged with orange. A fresh, full perfume of orange blossoms, mandarin oranges and acacia honey. These ideas carry through onto the palate.  High-toned. An idea of dried apricots.  The richness is lifted and shaped by sprightly acidity.

We scored big points with our friends, particularly Ugo.  (Ugo, like most Italians, just does not “get” the pleasures of older vintages.) The Ben Rye, however, brought comments like: “It has such elegance!”  Ugo turned to his wife, Stefi, and said: “Remember when I saw this wine at the restaurant in Trieste and I said: these people have good taste!”   

“Is this a Pantelleria?”  asked Stefi.

“This is Pantelleria!” replied Ugo, raising his glass.

To learn more about the daily life of a wine taster visit my website: www.patriciaguy.com

 The term Millennial Generation refers to consumers who are open-minded and willing to try things that are out of the ordinary – in fact they are people who seek out products and experiences that are extraordinary.  With that spirit in mind I have made a short list of wines I tasted at Vinitaly (the world’s largest annual wine trade fair) that fit this description. They are juicy and appealing but beyond all this – and what makes them Millennial – is that they also have soul, style and originality.   

2007 Bullulae Brut from Bruno Bortolotti (78% Lagrein, 15% Pinot Noir and 7% Ripasso Valpolicella)

This sparkling wine has a vivid, vibrant light ruby with definite rich red-orange highlights. It is the color of a wine that could proudly be served on the Starship Enterprise. In fact, it is, in my opinion, a wine of the future in that it manages to convey all the qualities of a fine, concentrated “important red” with the vivacity and liveliness of a superb sparkling wine.  The nose is a firm, decisive blend of bright berry fruits: raspberries, blueberries, a touch of cherry all captured in a net of softly citrusy zest.  On the palate it has a lovely – and surprising – creaminess. Again, I am left with the feeling that I am drinking something totally original and totally satisfying. It is a wonderful balance between graciousness and character. 

After 10 minutes in the glass the wine is still firm and fresh and inviting.

How did this unusual blend come about? “I noticed the affinity between  wines made from the Lagrein grape and Valpolicella Ripasso so I decided to experiment. You know I like to try new things,” says Bruno Bortolotti, whose company is located in the Veneto Region of Italy. (He also makes, in my opinion, the Prince of Proseccos.)   

When asked for a food match, Bruno says: “It is a wine to drink on its own. But if I had to pick something I would serve it with scampi risotto or pumpkin tortellini.”

2008 Erbaluce di Caluso from Benito Favero (100% Erbaluce) Pale gold. Bright, clean, refreshing. On the nose: freshness together with a creamy sensation. On the palate the idea of elderflowers mingles with soft white-fleshed fruits (some peaches, pears). On the middle palate the fruit flavor expands, all the while captured and kept firm by the lively minerality.  

“You need to give Erbaluce a lot of time to develop – just like some Soaves,” says Camillo Favero, winemaker at the estate, which is located in the Piedmont Region of Italy.

When asked for a an ideal match, Camillo suggests baked fish or roast white meats. 

2009 AS from Fattoria Zerbina (100% Albana) A sheen of pale straw with a clear rim. The fragrance rises up to meet you – full, fruity (apricots) with the idea of sweetness (although this is a dry wine) infused with a minerally acidity/freshness.  This pleasing sensation continues onto the palate and through the finish where the vivacious minerality becomes more evident.

The name AS derives from “Albano Secco”.  Cristina Geminiani, winemaker and owner of Fattoria Zerbina (which is located in the Italian Region of Emilia Romagna) suggests serving it with egg pasta dishes with vegetable-based sauces, or with soft, fresh cheeses (such as herbed goat’s cheese). 

2008 Soave “Monte Carbonare” from Suavia (100% Garganega)  A firm saturation of rich yellow, with a scrim of pea-green. The apricot-tinged fruit bursts out of the glass at the first sniff. Again the minerality seems to spin around the fruit, giving it a well-defined shape. The palate echoes the nose: apricot fruit and sprightly minerality. The apricot element broadens and dominates the lively finish.  A lovely wine.

After 10 minutes in the glass, the flavors and fragrances are even more finely knit. It takes on a sensation of heavy-silk on the palate. 

“We feel that the Carbonare is a true expression of its terroir,” says Meri Tessari, who with her sisters and parents, manages the Suavia estate.

“As regards pairing,” says Meri “I think Monte Carbonare is good with most fish-based dishes because it  respects the flesh of the fish, its salinity and delicate meat.  It is also excellent with vegetable and truffle risottos or medium-ripened cow’s milk cheese.”

Meri kindly provided some specific (and delicious-sounding) recommendations:  lime-marinated sardine bruschetta;  grilled red radicchio and Montasio cheese; risotto with pomegranate and Monte Veronese cheese;  pasta with zucchini, zucchini blossoms and ricotta; and almond-crusted sardines with savoy cabbage.

2009 Donnaluna from Viticoltori De Conciliis (100% Fiano)Pale gold, clear rim. Soft white-fleshed fruits contained in a fine mesh net of  zesty acidity. An intriguing salinity defines the flavor.  On the middle palate an attractive steely sensation emerges and the salinity (and minerality) seems to take on an almost visceral character – this is an excellent wine to serve with meals.  

When asked for a serving suggestion Bruno Di Conciliis says, “Spaghetti with clams – but with a good sauce – not one of those with a lot of burnt garlic!”. 

The Di Conciliis estate is located in Campania.  Bruno, by the way, petitioned and got permission to name a road near one of his vineyards: “via Frank Zappa”.  I like Bruno. 

2004 Ramuner from Zamuner (75% Pinot Nero, 10% Pinto Meunier, 15% Chardonnay) Golden yellow. It is round, easy and pleasing.  It has a very full, appealing perfume that gives the idea of ripe, fresh pears and apricots.  It is sweet on the nose but dry on the palate.

It is an a fine aperitif, particularly as its fruity fragrance makes it satisfying to drink without food.  “But it is also very good with ethnic dishes, “ says Daniele Zamuner. “Particularly Chicken curry.”    

2009 500 from Fattoria Zerbina  (96% Sangiovese, 4% Merlot) Right from the start this wine seems to shimmer with vibrancy. The color is a blue-tinged ruby with vivid scarlet highlights.  The fragrance is embracing. Its lush, velvety sensations ride high on a wave of bracing freshness. The fruit flavors  - strawberry, raspberry, blueberry  – are so well integrated that they become one glorious whole.

Its name -  500  (cinque-cento) – is reminiscent of the recently-released super compact Italian cars of the 50 and 60s and was chosen because the wine is only sold in 500 cl bottles.

“We know that people want to drink less these days at restaurants and at home, so we decided to bring out the wine in a smaller bottle,” says Cristina Geminani.   She suggests that the wine be served lightly chilled.

2008 Montebruna from Braida (100% Barbera)   Ripe rich plumy color. The fragrance conveys juicy, pulpy plums.  This is echoed on the palate: ripe, fresh, fruity – Barbera at its juicy best.  The acidity that is characteristic of the grape buoys the joyous fruit.

“I’d enjoy Montebruna with a great big juicy steak,” says Raffaella  Bologna, who with her brother and husband manages the Piedmontese estate.

Braida has long been known for its single-vineyard Barberas.  In fact, it was Giacomo Bologna (Raffaella’s father) who first recognized the grape’s potential for producing great, world-class wines.  With Montebruna the Bologna family has created a wine in line with the Millennial tastes: that is, a “real” wine, but one that dances across the palate. 

To read more about the daily life of a wine taster, visit www.patriciaguy.com

I tasted Chiarettos (both sparkling and still). Chiaretto refers to a rose wine made in the Bardolino zone. Some of the labels for the Chiarettos reminded me of Paris Hilton’s Bedroom (as seen on MTV). Their Hello Kitty Pink clashed with the actual color of the wine, which teeters between rose petal pink and orange.

The color is derived from the grape variety. The primary one in the Bardolino blend is usually  Corvina.  This grape is also part of the blend of Valpolicellas and Amarones.

The Bardolino production zone, generally speaking, lies between Lake Garda (Italy’s largest lake) and the Valpolicella zone in the Veneto region. For those who may have trouble spotting the Veneto on a map of Italy – it’s the region that includes Venice.

Around Lake Garda Sparkling Bardolino is often paired with grilled freshwater trout.  It also, of course, makes a nice, fresh drinks-party pour.

Here are some of my notes for the sparkling Bardolinos:  

Fulvio Benazzoli Chiaretto Spumante 2009 A vibrant rose-pink. Fresh. Floral nose. A crisp vibrant acidity lifts the wild berry fruit. Clean finish.  After 10 minutes in the glass it is still firm and fresh.

Cantina di Castelnuovo del Garda Chiaretto Spumante  Orangey-rose. Very lively color. On the palate: soft, undefined (but not unpleasant) fruit. A nice vibration on the palate. A cream soda (in a good way) undertow on the finish.

Costadoro Chiaretto Spumante  An attractive orangey-pink. Fresh. An idea of mustard bursts on the middle palate. This is a surprise – to say the least. But once I identify it  - it is rather nice.  It livens up the soft fruit flavors (mulberry, raspberry).Satisfying finish.

Monte Oliveto Chiaretto Spumante Orange with a rose scrim – a soft wad of fresh berry fruit held in shape by a fine net of acidity.   

Villabella Chiaretto Spumante Soft but firm fruit. Appealing. A touch of dry caramel on the finish, which is not unpleasant.

Monte Saline Chiaretto Spumante This is the only wine to be made with the Champagne Method.  This means that the second fermentation – the one that creates the bubbles – occurs in bottle rather than in a tank.  A lovely vibrant pale orange dominates the rose petal-pink color. It is the color of a wine that could be served on the Starship Enterprise.  A firm, appealing fragrance of strawberries. Very silky entry. Nice texture. Clean flavorful finish.

I then tasted through the still Bardolino Chiarettos. Here are a few of my notes:

Natale Castellani 2009 Bardolino Chiaretto  Nice saturation of rose. Very pleasing, nicely balanced – an elegant wine.  The fruit flavors – an amalgam of raspberry, mulberry and  wild berries – merge seamlessly. 

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Chiaretto Vibrant pink to clear rim. A fresh yet soft nose. Round yet firm fruit. The words “a workman-like job” come to mind. This is not a bad thing.  A client ordering this in a restaurant would be satisfied.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Chiaretto Soft nose. On the palate, the firm yet easy fruit indicates that the wine can be served on its own. I can see this as a popular “drinks party” wine.

Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto.  Pale scrim of rose petal pink with a touch of orange. A nice mouthful of soft fruit that is surrounded by a firm, fine net of acidity. This very elegant wine has a screw cap. I hope more producers make the decision to switch to this type of closure with wines that are not intended for decades of cellaring.

Le Tende Bardolino Chiaretto A fine, elegant mouthful. An appealing wine.

Monte del Fra Bardolino Chiaretto Pale. An obvious softness on the nose. Soft, round, easy. I really need not say more. 

For those who want to read more about my adventure in Bardolino or about The Incident of the Imperious Sommelier – in my March Diary, which will be posted on my website the first week in April.

Cheers,

Patricia

The Sangiovese di Romagna D.O.C. should be very easy to market and sell.  After all, it has one of the few official Italian denominations that is easy to understand: Sangiovese is the grape variety and Romagna is the region (Emilia-Romagna) where the wine is produced.

That it is not flying off the shelves of wine shops around the world is due, in part, to the fact that many consumers have yet to realize that the silky textures and bitter cherry flavors that they appreciate in such famous wines as Chianti and Brunello comes from the Sangiovese grape. Another contributing factor is that few wine magazines and wine shop owners are willing to promote wines that come from beyond the borders of the more popular regions of Tuscany, Piedmont and, more recently, Sicily.

So, my friends, I am here to tell you to try Sangiovese di Romagna wines.  Those from the best producers are luscious, satisfying, versatile and long lived.  They also often offer excellent value for money. 

Here are the notes on my favorite Sangiovese di Romagna wines tasted on February 21, 2010 in the  town of Faenza (in the region of Emilia-Romagna).

2009 Sangiovese di Romagna “Thea” produced by Tre Monte. Vibrant fuchsia-infused cherry red. On the nose a soft weave of ripe fruit revolves around a firm, fine acidity.  A warm plumy fruit on the palate. An idea of dark chocolate. Long satisfying finish.

2009 Sangiovese di Romagna “Pietramora” produced by Fattoria Zerbina.  A soft, deep rose sheen over rich ruby. On the nose a tight weave – silky texture – cherry-like fruit, a touch of minerality . Very silky on the entry then it expands on the middle-palate becoming almost velvety. A fine ripple of ripe cherries, a light touch of prunes. Lively, uplifting mineral zestiness.

2009 Sangiovese di Romagna “Pruno” produced by Drei Dona Tenuta La Palazza.  A Christmasy spicy fruit shot through with uplifting steely notes. The fruit is on the plumy side. It develops a velvety texture on the finish. Long.  Satisfying.

2005 Sangiovese di Romagna “Ari” produced by San Patrignano. Silky texture. A fresh appealing knobbly blend of blackberry, bitter cherry fruit. Satisfying finish.

1997 Sangiovese di Romagna “Pietramora” produced by Fattoria Zerbina.  An involving fruity warmth. A very inviting wine. Gives smooth, sensual pleasure. An amalgam of ripe cherries, plums with a firm undertow of tar. A fine wine.

I tasted the following wine at my home on February 10th

2000 “Graf Noir” from Drei Dona Tenuta La Palazza (made form primarily Sangiovese, Negretto Longanesi and Cabernet Franc). A very rich, softly diffused ruby with a warm near-brown sheen. A fine supporting acidity surrounded by very ripe berry fruit – cherry, raspberry, wild berry fruit. A silky texture that caresses the mouth. (Forgive me but that is what I felt.)  A fine, soft weave of fruit (cherry, very ripe plums) and an almost minerally zest.  Long, flavorful finish.  Satisfying.

For notes on other Sangiovese di Romagnas I sample at the tasting or for a look at the life of a professional wine taster go to my site: www.patriciaguy.com

Cheers,

Patricia

In the tradition of pairing local foods with local wines, we have taken Cowichan Valley wine and paired it with Cowichan Valley duck. Lyle and Fiona Young are the owner operators of their beautiful Cowichan Bay Farm. The Youngs follow sustainable agricultural traditions. Their Pastured Poultry is raised in the summer months outside in roomy moveable pens. The chickens and ducks they raise always have access to fresh grass, air and sunshine. In the winter months the birds are raised in warm and dry roomy barns with natural light. The feed used does not have any antibiotics or animal byproducts.

Executive Chef, Rick Choy, and his culinary team has taken duck from Cowichan and created a spring roll. The duck legs are BBQ’ed with a housemade BBQ sauce that has notes of spice and ginger. The duck is cut Julian style and wrapped up with carrots, diakon, celery, leeks and onions into a spring roll. The spring roll is deep fried to perfection and served piping hot.

Paired with this dish is the 2004 Venturi Schulze Pinot Noir. This Pinot Noir combines their 5 clones of Pinot Noir. The 2004 growing season contributed to a full and rich wine. The crop was split into two batches where one was cold fermented to preserve the signature Vancouver Island character of rich dark black cherry. While the second part of the batch was hot fermented which resulted in dark earthy flavors. The wine was finished in French Nevers Oak and is unfined and unfiltered.

Fortunately I’m now pretty sure that my headaches have nothing to do with my favorite libation, but if you think you are cursed, maybe I hope this will help you figure out what’s going on. If you can pinpoint exactly what hurts, at the very least you may be able to determine which over-the-counter medicine to take before the next wine dinner or tasting that you just have to go to.

(Rather than scattering this post with lots of links to the same place, I’ll just confess that most of what I didn’t know here came from Wikipedia – as well as a couple of tidbits from a good medical friend who is internet-shy and will therefore remain anonymous)

I’m pretty sure that it’s not accepted by the medical community, but the term “Red Wine Headache” (”RWH”) has apparently become a common term among sufferers. Although much of the below info came from source material with that heading, you’ll notice that most of these substances are (at least) as prevalent in white wine as red, so I won’t use it at all.

First – and most obvious – is alcohol itself. Needless to say, if you react badly to alcohol you should drink wine in extreme moderation (while it pains me to say it) – on average it’s 13% or so allergen to you. (That’s more than twice as much as most beer.) For those of you who aren’t actually allergic to alcohol but do find yourselves more prone to hangovers after wine than other beverages, I have only one word of advice: HYDRATE. Especially when drinking wine with dinner, it’s way too easy to forget to drink water too, and even when drunk on its own good wines (should?) tend to lack the alcohol burn that may remind you to take a break now and then to down something non-alcoholic. Drinking some water between each glass really is the simplest way to avoid pain the next day (plus it’s free and it tastes good). Trust me on this one… it’s been proven.

Next come sulfites, the most feared compound in wine, due to the completely random insistence by the US TTB (who regulates all wine labels in this country on behalf of the FDA) that “THIS PRODUCT CONTAINS SULFITES” be displayed almost as prominently on the label as the name of the winery. Along with scaring people out of their wits with something that is in fact naturally occurring in wine, this has lead to many misconceptions. It’s true that sulfites are commonly added as preservatives/stabilizers (or to stop fermentation and leave some residual sugar in the wine) but even 100% organic wines are not 100% sulfite free. Furthermore, sulfites are also present in many other products that you may consume on the regular, like processed meats, potato chips, and even dried fruit (see – you’re screwed even if you try to snack healthy). In any case, less than 1% of people are actually sensitive to sulfites, most of who suffer shortness of breath and/or throat swelling almost immediately after consuming them. If this group includes you, you’ve probably known it since childhood, so the rest of you can calm down and breathe easy now (no pun intended).

Now, histamine is a “vasoactive substance” which is far more prevalent in red wine than white – and it’s precisely the same substance that is released by our bodies when they are attacked by allergens. “Vasoactive” means that it causes swelling (or constriction, but swelling in this case), which is usually localized but in extreme cases can be general and ultimately lead to anaphylactic shock. Luckily, for the most part this one also has an easy fix –an anti-histamine! (creative, I know). One of the most common is Loratadine (Claritin), which lasts all day and can also be purchased without a prescription. This is the same stuff you probably take for your spring sneezing.

Tannin is another one of those terms I’m sure you hear incessantly in relation to wine but may not actually understand; it is a polyphenolic compound found in the skin of grapes and many other fruits, as well as the leaves of many plants – including those used in tea – and trees. It is the main factor in determining the ageability of a wine, and it’s an astringent, meaning it dries your mouth out makes you pucker. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about, just make some tea and let it steep for a while – you’ll notice that along with a very strong (and possibly bitter) flavor, you’re left with some cottonmouth after you swallow.

(Yes – I realize this paragraph leaves lots of room for double entendres, but it’s the best I could do. If you really can’t resist please comment cautiously… or just email me)

It’s worth mentioning that tannins are not the only things contained in grape skins – they contain all the coloring agents as well (with very rare exceptions). This means that white wine can be made from almost any grape, simply by limiting the time that it spends “macerating” with the skin. As a result red wines tend to have a much higher tannin content, although in some cases white wine will pick up additional oak tannins if it is fermented and/or aged in a barrel.

Unfortunately, from what I’ve read, most theories about tannin allergies are just that – theories. There doesn’t seem to be much recourse other than avoidance, and maybe some prescription medication that decreases swelling if your doctor believes you’re reacting specifically to tannin. If this is you, please accept my heartfelt condolences… and let me know if you want some good beer recommendations!

Finally, we come to prostaglandins, another organic compound that may cause swelling and pain (and which I’d never heard of before). This one is easily combated with Advil (or generic ibuprofen). While that probably isn’t the greatest call for your liver, if it helps you enjoy a special bottle every once in a while, I promise I won’t tell. Just don’t quote me on this.

I hope this helps some of you! In any case, it felt great to write again after so long.

(If any of you winos – or doctors – feel that I left something out, please don’t hesitate to comment. If on the other hand I’m just plain wrong about anything, I’m sure I won’t need to twist your arm.