A friend of mine had been telling me about a wine made by the Leonardo da Vinci estate and I was, to put it mildly, skeptical.   After a pox upon this earth was unleashed in book form bearing the Da Vinci name diminishing literacy in this country and abroad, I was loathe to see further exploitation of the name bleeding into the world of Italian wine which does not need any additional help in that dark art.  But no, he insisted, this is not a huge new ripe Super Tuscan with broad shoulders, gobs of fruit, mountains of oak and oceans of flesh, this is 100% Sangiovese.  Curiosity and a bottle in front of me put my cynicism in retreat.

The wine, Broncone Bordolese Deco IGT 2001 is made by Dr. Gianfrancesco Paoletti with the aide of Dr. Giacomo Taschis. On the nose the wine shows dusty cherry,  dried raspberry, clove, dried oregano and rosemary with a bit of earth, leather and chestnuts.   On the palate the balance is incredible, tart cherries, dried cherries and an elegant structure and long finish.  This is drinking beautifully now but could age for at least 10-15 years.  Textbook example of the true character and potential of Sangiovese.

The wine is not cheap nor easy to find, 2000 numbered bottles of the 750ml  and 1515 bottles of 1500ml were produced although the artwork on each is different.

And that of course is what takes this wine (besides my Sangiovese-centric praise) to a collectible level.  On each bottle there is artwork created and certified by the Museo Ideale Leonardo da Vinci,

and of course, I have bin scuffs on the one now on display at Rothmann’s due to the largish size of the bottle and the eager aggressive way this sommelier pulled it from the rack (let that be an expensive lesson to me).

http://www.lafucinadileonardo.com/inglese/semplici/cultura.html

Worth searching for this wine, despite the price -for the traditional and superb expression of fruit inside of it, the artwork and uniqueness of the bottles themselves and to reclaim Leonard Da Vinci for the rest of us from a airport paperback.

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye

Donnafugata is based in Sicily, where the company produces a range of exceptionally appealing reds and whites.  However, the jewels in its crown are the wines it makes on the tiny volcanic island of Pantelleria, which lies between Sicily and Africa.  There Donnafugata grows Zibibbo (a.k.a. Moscato di Alessandria).  Each vine is left to form its own small bush.  (In other areas, vines are usually trained onto wires to form tidy rows.) These bushes grow close to the ground and as a consequence are somewhat protected from the winds that sweep across the island.  Some of the vines are over 100 years old and, as you can imagine all work in the vineyards must be carried out by hand. 

“The vines grow horizontal to the earth,” says Jose Rallo, whose family owns Donnafugata. “It takes a lot of hard work to tend them.  You have to really believe in the wines.” 

She confesses that Ben Rye, the company’s exquisite sweet wine whose name in Arabic means “child of the wind”, is her favorite wine.    “Loving it is almost a duty for me,” she says. “I have to love  it and make others love it.”

I was fortunate enough to taste 4 vintages of Ben Rye at the recent Vinitaly wine trade fair held in Verona.  Here are my notes. 

2002 Ben Rye. A vibrant yellow sheen over a clear, fine tangerine/pale toffee color; clear rim. The nose presents a bright amalgam of citrus (citron, tangerine), with shadows of apricots and figs and a soft, broad grapiness. It is sprinkled with fine, warm spices. The palate echoes the nose. The sensations are firm, the ideas of figs and blossoms broaden and are joined by flavors of fresh pine nuts.  The flavor evolves in the long, fine finish.  The shades of  figs and ripe but firm apricots remain on the palate long after the wine itself has gone.  

After 10 minutes: It remains firm and satisfying with a youthful vivacity. A lovely experience.

After 15 minutes: Its freshness holds.

After 20 minutes: Still appealing, still firmly presenting its luscious fragrances and flavors.

“Zibibbo is an aromatic variety,” says Jose “For us the 2002 is a benchmark vintage. It has  great acidity that balances the fullness of the flavors.”

2005 Ben Rye Vibrant. Lightly colored rim. A pea green sheen over a tawny color, with vivid tangerine highlights.  Fresh, uplifting nose. The freshness is dominant on the nose followed half a beat later by a clean orange-lemon marmalade tinged sensation. A very tight weave on the palate. Again shades of apricots, orange marmalade and  tangerines, with a nuance of fresh hazelnuts. A fine line of rich fruit defines the very long faftertaste.

After 10 minutes: The ripe apricot element unfolds on the nose and palate like silk and a sprinkling of tangerine zest emerges.

After 15 minutes: The apricot settles down and melds with the zest. The finish is even more intriguing.

After 20 minutes: It is still fine and fresh.

2008 Ben Rye More yellow in the yellow/tawny blend of colors. The tangerine highlights are softer.  There is the suggestion of an expensive scented powder on the nose. (Dior comes to mind, I do not know why.) This lies over a broad apricot note. On the palate the very ripe apricot notes are fully and richly expressed, yet all the while the lively zesty acidity shapes and enlivens the flavors. Very lively on the palate. The finish is a-tingle with pleasing sensations: ripe fruit, tangerine zest and a touch of very fresh pine nuts.

“The 2008,” says Jose. “is like a festa. It has a new label, one that recalls the land and the hard work we have done on Pantelleria.”

After 10 minutes:  The wine opens up and the apricot becomes even more generous and inviting. I detect notes of ripe figs.

After 15 minutes:  A generous mouthful.  The sensation of a comforting cloud of very ripe apricots on the nose.  The palate, too, reveals a broad, complex range of flavors.

After 20 minutes. It maintains its luscious generosity.

Last year I served some Italian friends a bottle of 2005 Ben Rye.  Let me recount that event here. We served the wine with a Grand Marnier infused cake, decorated with orange slices and gold- flaked pieces of chocolate.

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye 2005 (this note was written a year ago).  Golden tinged with orange. A fresh, full perfume of orange blossoms, mandarin oranges and acacia honey. These ideas carry through onto the palate.  High-toned. An idea of dried apricots.  The richness is lifted and shaped by sprightly acidity.

We scored big points with our friends, particularly Ugo.  (Ugo, like most Italians, just does not “get” the pleasures of older vintages.) The Ben Rye, however, brought comments like: “It has such elegance!”  Ugo turned to his wife, Stefi, and said: “Remember when I saw this wine at the restaurant in Trieste and I said: these people have good taste!”   

“Is this a Pantelleria?”  asked Stefi.

“This is Pantelleria!” replied Ugo, raising his glass.

To learn more about the daily life of a wine taster visit my website: www.patriciaguy.com

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye

Donnafugata is based in Sicily, where the company produces a range of exceptionally appealing reds and whites.  However, the jewels in its crown are the wines it makes on the tiny volcanic island of Pantelleria, which lies between Sicily and Africa.  There Donnafugata grows Zibibbo (a.k.a. Moscato di Alessandria).  Each vine is left to form its own small bush.  (In other areas, vines are usually trained onto wires to form tidy rows.) These bushes grow close to the ground and as a consequence are somewhat protected from the winds that sweep across the island.  Some of the vines are over 100 years old and, as you can imagine all work in the vineyards must be carried out by hand. 

“The vines grow horizontal to the earth,” says Jose Rallo, whose family owns Donnafugata. “It takes a lot of hard work to tend them.  You have to really believe in the wines.” 

She confesses that Ben Rye, the company’s exquisite sweet wine whose name in Arabic means “child of the wind”, is her favorite wine.    “Loving it is almost a duty for me,” she says. “I have to love  it and make others love it.”

I was fortunate enough to taste 4 vintages of Ben Rye at the recent Vinitaly wine trade fair held in Verona.  Here are my notes. 

2002 Ben Rye. A vibrant yellow sheen over a clear, fine tangerine/pale toffee color; clear rim. The nose presents a bright amalgam of citrus (citron, tangerine), with shadows of apricots and figs and a soft, broad grapiness. It is sprinkled with fine, warm spices. The palate echoes the nose. The sensations are firm, the ideas of figs and blossoms broaden and are joined by flavors of fresh pine nuts.  The flavor evolves in the long, fine finish.  The shades of  figs and ripe but firm apricots remain on the palate long after the wine itself has gone.  

After 10 minutes: It remains firm and satisfying with a youthful vivacity. A lovely experience.

After 15 minutes: Its freshness holds.

After 20 minutes: Still appealing, still firmly presenting its luscious fragrances and flavors.

“Zibibbo is an aromatic variety,” says Jose “For us the 2002 is a benchmark vintage. It has  great acidity that balances the fullness of the flavors.”

2005 Ben Rye Vibrant. Lightly colored rim. A pea green sheen over a tawny color, with vivid tangerine highlights.  Fresh, uplifting nose. The freshness is dominant on the nose followed half a beat later by a clean orange-lemon marmalade tinged sensation. A very tight weave on the palate. Again shades of apricots, orange marmalade and  tangerines, with a nuance of fresh hazelnuts. A fine line of rich fruit defines the very long faftertaste.

After 10 minutes: The ripe apricot element unfolds on the nose and palate like silk and a sprinkling of tangerine zest emerges.

After 15 minutes: The apricot settles down and melds with the zest. The finish is even more intriguing.

After 20 minutes: It is still fine and fresh.

2008 Ben Rye More yellow in the yellow/tawny blend of colors. The tangerine highlights are softer.  There is the suggestion of an expensive scented powder on the nose. (Dior comes to mind, I do not know why.) This lies over a broad apricot note. On the palate the very ripe apricot notes are fully and richly expressed, yet all the while the lively zesty acidity shapes and enlivens the flavors. Very lively on the palate. The finish is a-tingle with pleasing sensations: ripe fruit, tangerine zest and a touch of very fresh pine nuts.

“The 2008,” says Jose. “is like a festa. It has a new label, one that recalls the land and the hard work we have done on Pantelleria.”

After 10 minutes:  The wine opens up and the apricot becomes even more generous and inviting. I detect notes of ripe figs.

After 15 minutes:  A generous mouthful.  The sensation of a comforting cloud of very ripe apricots on the nose.  The palate, too, reveals a broad, complex range of flavors.

After 20 minutes. It maintains its luscious generosity.

Last year I served some Italian friends a bottle of 2005 Ben Rye.  Let me recount that event here. We served the wine with a Grand Marnier infused cake, decorated with orange slices and gold- flaked pieces of chocolate.

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye 2005 (this note was written a year ago).  Golden tinged with orange. A fresh, full perfume of orange blossoms, mandarin oranges and acacia honey. These ideas carry through onto the palate.  High-toned. An idea of dried apricots.  The richness is lifted and shaped by sprightly acidity.

We scored big points with our friends, particularly Ugo.  (Ugo, like most Italians, just does not “get” the pleasures of older vintages.) The Ben Rye, however, brought comments like: “It has such elegance!”  Ugo turned to his wife, Stefi, and said: “Remember when I saw this wine at the restaurant in Trieste and I said: these people have good taste!”   

“Is this a Pantelleria?”  asked Stefi.

“This is Pantelleria!” replied Ugo, raising his glass.

To learn more about the daily life of a wine taster visit my website: www.patriciaguy.com

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye

Donnafugata is based in Sicily, where the company produces a range of exceptionally appealing reds and whites.  However, the jewels in its crown are the wines it makes on the tiny volcanic island of Pantelleria, which lies between Sicily and Africa.  There Donnafugata grows Zibibbo (a.k.a. Moscato di Alessandria).  Each vine is left to form its own small bush.  (In other areas, vines are usually trained onto wires to form tidy rows.) These bushes grow close to the ground and as a consequence are somewhat protected from the winds that sweep across the island.  Some of the vines are over 100 years old and, as you can imagine all work in the vineyards must be carried out by hand. 

“The vines grow horizontal to the earth,” says Jose Rallo, whose family owns Donnafugata. “It takes a lot of hard work to tend them.  You have to really believe in the wines.” 

She confesses that Ben Rye, the company’s exquisite sweet wine whose name in Arabic means “child of the wind”, is her favorite wine.    “Loving it is almost a duty for me,” she says. “I have to love  it and make others love it.”

I was fortunate enough to taste 4 vintages of Ben Rye at the recent Vinitaly wine trade fair held in Verona.  Here are my notes. 

2002 Ben Rye. A vibrant yellow sheen over a clear, fine tangerine/pale toffee color; clear rim. The nose presents a bright amalgam of citrus (citron, tangerine), with shadows of apricots and figs and a soft, broad grapiness. It is sprinkled with fine, warm spices. The palate echoes the nose. The sensations are firm, the ideas of figs and blossoms broaden and are joined by flavors of fresh pine nuts.  The flavor evolves in the long, fine finish.  The shades of  figs and ripe but firm apricots remain on the palate long after the wine itself has gone.  

After 10 minutes: It remains firm and satisfying with a youthful vivacity. A lovely experience.

After 15 minutes: Its freshness holds.

After 20 minutes: Still appealing, still firmly presenting its luscious fragrances and flavors.

“Zibibbo is an aromatic variety,” says Jose “For us the 2002 is a benchmark vintage. It has  great acidity that balances the fullness of the flavors.”

2005 Ben Rye Vibrant. Lightly colored rim. A pea green sheen over a tawny color, with vivid tangerine highlights.  Fresh, uplifting nose. The freshness is dominant on the nose followed half a beat later by a clean orange-lemon marmalade tinged sensation. A very tight weave on the palate. Again shades of apricots, orange marmalade and  tangerines, with a nuance of fresh hazelnuts. A fine line of rich fruit defines the very long faftertaste.

After 10 minutes: The ripe apricot element unfolds on the nose and palate like silk and a sprinkling of tangerine zest emerges.

After 15 minutes: The apricot settles down and melds with the zest. The finish is even more intriguing.

After 20 minutes: It is still fine and fresh.

2008 Ben Rye More yellow in the yellow/tawny blend of colors. The tangerine highlights are softer.  There is the suggestion of an expensive scented powder on the nose. (Dior comes to mind, I do not know why.) This lies over a broad apricot note. On the palate the very ripe apricot notes are fully and richly expressed, yet all the while the lively zesty acidity shapes and enlivens the flavors. Very lively on the palate. The finish is a-tingle with pleasing sensations: ripe fruit, tangerine zest and a touch of very fresh pine nuts.

“The 2008,” says Jose. “is like a festa. It has a new label, one that recalls the land and the hard work we have done on Pantelleria.”

After 10 minutes:  The wine opens up and the apricot becomes even more generous and inviting. I detect notes of ripe figs.

After 15 minutes:  A generous mouthful.  The sensation of a comforting cloud of very ripe apricots on the nose.  The palate, too, reveals a broad, complex range of flavors.

After 20 minutes. It maintains its luscious generosity.

Last year I served some Italian friends a bottle of 2005 Ben Rye.  Let me recount that event here. We served the wine with a Grand Marnier infused cake, decorated with orange slices and gold- flaked pieces of chocolate.

Donnafugata’s Ben Rye 2005 (this note was written a year ago).  Golden tinged with orange. A fresh, full perfume of orange blossoms, mandarin oranges and acacia honey. These ideas carry through onto the palate.  High-toned. An idea of dried apricots.  The richness is lifted and shaped by sprightly acidity.

We scored big points with our friends, particularly Ugo.  (Ugo, like most Italians, just does not “get” the pleasures of older vintages.) The Ben Rye, however, brought comments like: “It has such elegance!”  Ugo turned to his wife, Stefi, and said: “Remember when I saw this wine at the restaurant in Trieste and I said: these people have good taste!”   

“Is this a Pantelleria?”  asked Stefi.

“This is Pantelleria!” replied Ugo, raising his glass.

To learn more about the daily life of a wine taster visit my website: www.patriciaguy.com

Millennial Wines

 The term Millennial Generation refers to consumers who are open-minded and willing to try things that are out of the ordinary – in fact they are people who seek out products and experiences that are extraordinary.  With that spirit in mind I have made a short list of wines I tasted at Vinitaly (the world’s largest annual wine trade fair) that fit this description. They are juicy and appealing but beyond all this – and what makes them Millennial – is that they also have soul, style and originality.   

2007 Bullulae Brut from Bruno Bortolotti (78% Lagrein, 15% Pinot Noir and 7% Ripasso Valpolicella)

This sparkling wine has a vivid, vibrant light ruby with definite rich red-orange highlights. It is the color of a wine that could proudly be served on the Starship Enterprise. In fact, it is, in my opinion, a wine of the future in that it manages to convey all the qualities of a fine, concentrated “important red” with the vivacity and liveliness of a superb sparkling wine.  The nose is a firm, decisive blend of bright berry fruits: raspberries, blueberries, a touch of cherry all captured in a net of softly citrusy zest.  On the palate it has a lovely – and surprising – creaminess. Again, I am left with the feeling that I am drinking something totally original and totally satisfying. It is a wonderful balance between graciousness and character. 

After 10 minutes in the glass the wine is still firm and fresh and inviting.

How did this unusual blend come about? “I noticed the affinity between  wines made from the Lagrein grape and Valpolicella Ripasso so I decided to experiment. You know I like to try new things,” says Bruno Bortolotti, whose company is located in the Veneto Region of Italy. (He also makes, in my opinion, the Prince of Proseccos.)   

When asked for a food match, Bruno says: “It is a wine to drink on its own. But if I had to pick something I would serve it with scampi risotto or pumpkin tortellini.”

2008 Erbaluce di Caluso from Benito Favero (100% Erbaluce) Pale gold. Bright, clean, refreshing. On the nose: freshness together with a creamy sensation. On the palate the idea of elderflowers mingles with soft white-fleshed fruits (some peaches, pears). On the middle palate the fruit flavor expands, all the while captured and kept firm by the lively minerality.  

“You need to give Erbaluce a lot of time to develop – just like some Soaves,” says Camillo Favero, winemaker at the estate, which is located in the Piedmont Region of Italy.

When asked for a an ideal match, Camillo suggests baked fish or roast white meats. 

2009 AS from Fattoria Zerbina (100% Albana) A sheen of pale straw with a clear rim. The fragrance rises up to meet you – full, fruity (apricots) with the idea of sweetness (although this is a dry wine) infused with a minerally acidity/freshness.  This pleasing sensation continues onto the palate and through the finish where the vivacious minerality becomes more evident.

The name AS derives from “Albano Secco”.  Cristina Geminiani, winemaker and owner of Fattoria Zerbina (which is located in the Italian Region of Emilia Romagna) suggests serving it with egg pasta dishes with vegetable-based sauces, or with soft, fresh cheeses (such as herbed goat’s cheese). 

2008 Soave “Monte Carbonare” from Suavia (100% Garganega)  A firm saturation of rich yellow, with a scrim of pea-green. The apricot-tinged fruit bursts out of the glass at the first sniff. Again the minerality seems to spin around the fruit, giving it a well-defined shape. The palate echoes the nose: apricot fruit and sprightly minerality. The apricot element broadens and dominates the lively finish.  A lovely wine.

After 10 minutes in the glass, the flavors and fragrances are even more finely knit. It takes on a sensation of heavy-silk on the palate. 

“We feel that the Carbonare is a true expression of its terroir,” says Meri Tessari, who with her sisters and parents, manages the Suavia estate.

“As regards pairing,” says Meri “I think Monte Carbonare is good with most fish-based dishes because it  respects the flesh of the fish, its salinity and delicate meat.  It is also excellent with vegetable and truffle risottos or medium-ripened cow’s milk cheese.”

Meri kindly provided some specific (and delicious-sounding) recommendations:  lime-marinated sardine bruschetta;  grilled red radicchio and Montasio cheese; risotto with pomegranate and Monte Veronese cheese;  pasta with zucchini, zucchini blossoms and ricotta; and almond-crusted sardines with savoy cabbage.

2009 Donnaluna from Viticoltori De Conciliis (100% Fiano)Pale gold, clear rim. Soft white-fleshed fruits contained in a fine mesh net of  zesty acidity. An intriguing salinity defines the flavor.  On the middle palate an attractive steely sensation emerges and the salinity (and minerality) seems to take on an almost visceral character – this is an excellent wine to serve with meals.  

When asked for a serving suggestion Bruno Di Conciliis says, “Spaghetti with clams – but with a good sauce – not one of those with a lot of burnt garlic!”. 

The Di Conciliis estate is located in Campania.  Bruno, by the way, petitioned and got permission to name a road near one of his vineyards: “via Frank Zappa”.  I like Bruno. 

2004 Ramuner from Zamuner (75% Pinot Nero, 10% Pinto Meunier, 15% Chardonnay) Golden yellow. It is round, easy and pleasing.  It has a very full, appealing perfume that gives the idea of ripe, fresh pears and apricots.  It is sweet on the nose but dry on the palate.

It is an a fine aperitif, particularly as its fruity fragrance makes it satisfying to drink without food.  “But it is also very good with ethnic dishes, “ says Daniele Zamuner. “Particularly Chicken curry.”    

2009 500 from Fattoria Zerbina  (96% Sangiovese, 4% Merlot) Right from the start this wine seems to shimmer with vibrancy. The color is a blue-tinged ruby with vivid scarlet highlights.  The fragrance is embracing. Its lush, velvety sensations ride high on a wave of bracing freshness. The fruit flavors  - strawberry, raspberry, blueberry  – are so well integrated that they become one glorious whole.

Its name -  500  (cinque-cento) – is reminiscent of the recently-released super compact Italian cars of the 50 and 60s and was chosen because the wine is only sold in 500 cl bottles.

“We know that people want to drink less these days at restaurants and at home, so we decided to bring out the wine in a smaller bottle,” says Cristina Geminani.   She suggests that the wine be served lightly chilled.

2008 Montebruna from Braida (100% Barbera)   Ripe rich plumy color. The fragrance conveys juicy, pulpy plums.  This is echoed on the palate: ripe, fresh, fruity – Barbera at its juicy best.  The acidity that is characteristic of the grape buoys the joyous fruit.

“I’d enjoy Montebruna with a great big juicy steak,” says Raffaella  Bologna, who with her brother and husband manages the Piedmontese estate.

Braida has long been known for its single-vineyard Barberas.  In fact, it was Giacomo Bologna (Raffaella’s father) who first recognized the grape’s potential for producing great, world-class wines.  With Montebruna the Bologna family has created a wine in line with the Millennial tastes: that is, a “real” wine, but one that dances across the palate. 

To read more about the daily life of a wine taster, visit www.patriciaguy.com